Thursday, October 23, 2008
By China Millman, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
Pam Panchak/Post-Gazette
French Press coffee service at Legume Bistro in Regent Square.
Great restaurants are great because of their attention to detail. Whether in Pittsburgh or Paris, they serve high-quality bread, use freshly squeezed juices in cocktails and make their desserts from scratch in house. Too many restaurants in Pittsburgh treat these elements of the meal as if they were only details, as if they don't matter in the overall scheme of success.
There are many easy changes that restaurants could make to improve the quality of their meals (so-called whipped cream that actually comes from a canister is ubiquitous and frustrating), but instead I'd like to examine a problem that isn't so easily solved, but is definitely worth solving. Why is it so hard to get a decent cup of coffee in a Pittsburgh restaurant?
The general absence of good coffee in Pittsburgh restaurants is baffling, because Pittsburgh has a vibrant coffee culture supported by people who are also some of the city's most active diners. Pittsburgh has an impressive number of high-quality cafes where professionals devote themselves to serving the best possible coffee and espresso.
Meanwhile, above-average restaurants in Pittsburgh rarely serve above-average coffee. At the end of meals I have learned to order coffee with my fingers crossed. Will it be weak and watery, or so bitter it's undrinkable without a dose of sugar and cream? Will espresso be cold? Will a double shot be large enough to fill a coffee, rather than a demitasse, cup, and will it taste similarly diluted?
Coffee in restaurants will probably never be able to compete in a head-to-head comparison with the best cafes, but that doesn't mean it can't be more than tolerable. Why aren't restaurants taking advantage of, or at least demonstrating an awareness of, an already educated public willing to pay extra for a quality cup?
The immediate cause is disappointingly obvious: Good coffee costs more. No amount of work can turn mediocre beans into a good cup of coffee. Sam Patti, owner of the La Prima Espresso Company, has had a number of frustrating tastings at restaurants where owners and staff express enthusiasm for La Prima coffee, but then balk at spending more for it than they do for whatever they're already brewing -- despite the fact that they can taste the difference in quality.
Even restaurants that buy high-quality beans rarely seek comprehensive training from Patti or from other local experts such as Rich Westerfield of Aldo Coffee in Mt. Lebanon. Though beans are an essential ingredient of good coffee, it's entirely possible to get bad coffee from good beans, just as it's entirely possible to get bad food from high-quality ingredients.
Training staff to make coffee or espresso is difficult, especially given the high turnover of many restaurant workers. When it comes to espresso, most restaurants are doomed from the start, because the machine is "often at the wrong temperature due to long idle times between drink orders," explained Westerfield. "But for drip, any decent place should be able to handle press pots or individual pour-overs with a short but good menu of different coffees."
Westerfield is referring to techniques that most coffee experts consider the future: single-cup brewing methods such as chemex pots, a sort of manual version of drip-coffee, and French press pots, where water is poured directly over ground coffee, "brewed" for approximately three minutes, then the water is "pressed" out of the coffee using a fine wire mesh.
French press coffee is the ideal solution for restaurants because the most important aspect of this method is the recipe -- using the proper amount of beans, ground at the right size, for the right amount of water at the right temperature. Once you've figured out the recipe you prefer, it is quite simple to teach it to anyone.
Legume Bistro has been serving French press coffee (with La Prima beans) since it opened in the summer of 2007, and the coffee I've had there has been consistently top-notch. A small pot of coffee provides two small cups, while a large pot could easily be split among two to four people.
The best part about French press coffee is that not only does it produce excellent coffee, it also introduces a pleasant element of ritual into the meal.
Coffee and tea often get short shrift in individual restaurant reviews because there is simply too much going on in any restaurant to write about everything, but their quality has a measurable impact on my overall experience. I don't expect perfection, just a reasonable amount of care and quality, the same amount of care and quality that goes into the food.
Restaurants continue to worry about rising costs as the price of most major commodities continues to climb, and most will probably scoff at the idea of choosing to spend more on anything right now. But given the current economic climate, there's probably going to be a thinning of restaurants, and the ones that make it aren't necessarily going to be the cheapest. The restaurants that survive are probably going to be the ones that offer the greatest perception of value -- the best experience at any price. Coffee is often the last taste of a restaurant that customers get. Shouldn't it make them want to come back?
Coffee cupping
Coffee cupping
Taste
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Coffee cupping, or coffee tasting, is the practice of observing the tastes and aromas of brewed coffee. It is a professional practise but can be done informally by anyone or by professionals known as Master Tasters.
A standard coffee cupping procedure involves deeply sniffing the coffee, then loudly slurping the coffee so it spreads to the back of the tongue. The coffee taster attempts to measure aspects of the coffee's taste, specifically the body (the texture or mouthfeel, such as oiliness), acidity (a sharp and tangy feeling, like when biting into an orange), and balance (the harmony of flavours working together). Since coffee beans embody telltale flavours from the region where they were grown, cuppers may attempt to predict the coffee's origin.
Aromas
Animal-like - This odour descriptor is somewhat reminiscent of the smell of animals. It is not a fragrant aroma like musk but has the characteristic odour of wet fur, sweat, leather, hides or urine. It is not necessarily considered as a negative attribute but is generally used to describe strong notes.
Ashy - This odour descriptor is similar to that of an ashtray, the odour of smokers' fingers or the smell one gets when cleaning out a fireplace. It is not used as a negative attribute. Generally speaking this descriptor is used by the tasters to indicate the degree of roast.
Burnt/Smoky - This odour and flavour descriptor is similar to that found in burnt food. The odour is associated with smoke produced when burning wood. This descriptor is frequently used to indicate the degree of roast commonly found by tasters in dark-roasted or oven-roasted coffees.
Chemical/Medicinal - This odour descriptor is reminiscent of chemicals, medicines and the smell of hospitals. This term is used to describe coffees having aromas such as rio flavour, chemical residues or highly aromatic coffees which produce large amounts of volatiles.
Chocolate-like - This aroma descriptor is reminiscent of the aroma and flavour of cocoa powder and chocolate (including dark chocolate and milk chocolate). It is an aroma that is sometimes referred to as sweet.
Caramel - This aroma descriptor is reminiscent of the odour and flavour produced when caramelizing sugar without burning it. Tasters should be cautioned not to use this attribute to describe a burning note.
Cereal/Malty/Toastlike - This descriptor includes aromas characteristic of cereal, malt, and toast. It includes scents such as the aroma and flavour of uncooked or roasted grain (including roasted corn, barley or wheat), malt extract and the aroma and flavour of freshly baked bread and freshly made toast. This descriptor has a common denominator, a grain-type aroma. The aromas in this descriptor were grouped together since tasters used these terms interchangeably when evaluating standards of each one.
Earthy - The characteristic odour of fresh, wet soil or humus. Sometimes associated with moulds and reminiscent of raw potato flavour, a common flavournote in coffees from Asia.
Floral - This aroma descriptor is similar to the fragrance of flowers. It is associated with the slight scent of different types of flowers including honeysuckle, jasmine, dandelion and nettles. It is mainly found when an intense fruity or green aroma is perceived but rarely found having a high intensity by itself.
Fruity/Citrus - This aroma is reminiscent of the odour and taste of fruit. The natural aroma of berries is highly associated with this attribute. The perception of high acidity in some coffees is correlated with the citrus characteristic. Tasters should be cautioned not to use this attribute to describe the aroma of unripe or overripe fruit.
Grassy/Green/Herbal - This aroma descriptor includes three terms which are associated with odours reminiscent of a freshly mowed lawn, fresh green grass or herbs, green foliage, green beans or unripe fruit.
Nutty - This aroma is reminiscent of the odour and flavour of fresh nuts (distinct from rancid nuts) and not of bitter almonds.
Rancid/Rotten - This aroma descriptor includes two terms which are associated with odours reminiscent of rancidification and oxidation of several products. Rancid as the main indicator of fat oxidation mainly refers to rancid nuts and rotten is used as an indicator of deteriorated vegetables or non-oily products. Tasters should be cautioned not to apply these descriptors to coffees that have strong notes but no signs of deterioration.
Spicy - This aroma descriptor is typical of the odour of sweet spices such as cloves, cinnamon and allspice. Tasters are cautioned not to use this term to describe the aroma of savoury spices such as pepper, oregano and Indian spices.
Tobacco - This aroma descriptor is reminiscent of the odour and taste of tobacco but should not be used for burnt tobacco.
Winey - This terms is used to describe the combined sensation of smell, taste and mouthfeel experiences when drinking wine. It is generally perceived when a strong acidic or fruity note is found. Tasters should be cautioned not to apply this term to a sour or fermented flavour.
Woody - This aroma descriptor is reminiscent of the smell of dry wood, an oak barrel, dead wood or cardboard paper.
Taste
Acidity - A basic taste characterised by the solution of an organic acid. A desirable sharp and pleasing taste particularly strong with certain origins as opposed to an over-fermented sour taste.
Bitterness - A primary taste characterised by the solution of caffeine, quinine and certain other alkaloids. This taste is considered desirable up to a certain level and is affected by the degree of roast brewing procedures.
Sweetness - This is a basic taste descriptor characterised by solutions of sucrose or fructose which are commonly associated with sweet aroma descriptors such as fruity, chocolate and caramel. It is generally used for describing coffees which are free from off-flavours.
Saltiness - A primary taste characterised by a solution of sodium chloride or other salts.
Sourness - This basic taste descriptor refers to an excessively sharp, biting and unpleasant flavour (such as vinegar or acetic acid). It is sometimes associated with the aroma of fermented coffee. Tasters should be cautious not to confuse this term with acidity which is generally considered a pleasant and desirable taste in coffee.
Mouthfeel
Body - This attribute descriptor is used to describe the physical properties of the beverage. A strong but pleasant full mouthfeel characteristic as opposed to being thin.
To an amateur coffee taster, body can be compared to drinking milk. A heavy body is comparable to whole milk while a light body can be comparable to skim milk.
Astringency - The astringent attribute is characteristic of an after-taste sensation consistent with a dry feeling in the mouth, undesirable in coffee.
SIBORONG BORONG !!! AGAIN !!!
Starbucks announces Sumatra Siborong Borong, Black Apron exclusive coffee offering
Starbucks Coffee introduces Black Apron Exclusives Sumatra Siborong-Borong, available for a limited time only at selected stores in the Middle East.
United Arab Emirates: Tuesday, September 11 - 2007 at 13:33
PRESS RELEASE
Sumatra Siborong-Borong Coffee from Starbucks.
From the region that is the source for Starbucks best-selling single origin coffee comes a rare find in the coffee fields of a small town in Sumatra.
The newest addition to the special line of Black Apron Exclusives™ coffees, Sumatra Siborong-Borong produces the flavour qualities of its Asia/Pacific heritage, but consists of a very distinct and limited crop from a small town on the southern shores of Lake Toba, called Siborong-Borong. In Sumatra, where coffee is grown in rural backyard gardens, nearly all of this coffee is blended prior to export, making the flavours very special, offering the distinct flavour profile of a semi-washed Indonesian coffee, yielding full body and earthy notes. But what makes Sumatra Siborong-Borong especially extraordinary is its soft acidity, intense flavour and surprising herbal complexities with fresh basil notes
'Sumatra has been part of Starbucks' history for a quarter century, used in both blends and as a single-origin offering. In Sumatra, coffee is grown in abundance, nearly all is blended together prior to export. That is why Sumatra Siborong-Borong is very special as it's only available in a single offering not blended with any other coffee. Through Starbucks' relationships with farmers and exporters, Starbucks was able to obtain coffee grown in a single community and reserved this small batch to Starbucks customers. Starbucks Alshaya is delighted and honoured to share this coffee with coffee lovers in the region,' said Antoun Abou Jaoude, Marketing Manager for Starbucks Coffee Middle East.
Sumatra Siborong-Borong is grown in Lake Toba's most-prized coffee-growing area. The microclimate, volcanic soil, high-altitude and coffee stewardship helped produce this exceptional coffee. The climate is wet, so farmers must take extra care to protect the beans from moisture damage by delivering them to a centrally located mill the morning after harvest.
The Black Apron Exclusives™ coffees are named for Starbucks most knowledgeable buyers, roasters, tasters and Coffee Masters, who wear black aprons in the tasting rooms and in Starbucks coffeehouses. These coffees represent Starbucks expertise in coffee and dedication to the farmers who grow it. Black Apron Exclusives™ coffees are rare and intriguing, available in very limited supply and designed to appeal to people looking to experience truly unique and exotic flavours.
Starbucks awards US$15,000 for each Black Apron Exclusives™ coffee to help fund projects that support their communities, their environment and coffee sustainability. This award will be used to build three village clinics in Siborong-Borong coffee-producing areas. These new clinics will provide improved health care on a daily basis, benefiting approximately 3,000 of the area's residents.
'Sumatra Siborong-Borong is a C.A.F.E. (Coffee & Farmers Equity) Practices-verified coffee, ensuring the sustainable supply of high-quality coffee and preservation of farmers' rights where the coffee is sourced. Many people love Sumatra coffee, but few have ever experienced Sumatran flavours like these. This coffee beautifully packaged in a unique die-cut box is a rare treat, available only at selected Starbucks Alshaya stores across the Middle East. Customers can help support coffee-farming communities around the world by purchasing our Black Apron Exclusive coffees,' added Abou Jaoude.
Starbucks Coffee introduces Black Apron Exclusives Sumatra Siborong-Borong, available for a limited time only at selected stores in the Middle East.
United Arab Emirates: Tuesday, September 11 - 2007 at 13:33
PRESS RELEASE
Sumatra Siborong-Borong Coffee from Starbucks.
From the region that is the source for Starbucks best-selling single origin coffee comes a rare find in the coffee fields of a small town in Sumatra.
The newest addition to the special line of Black Apron Exclusives™ coffees, Sumatra Siborong-Borong produces the flavour qualities of its Asia/Pacific heritage, but consists of a very distinct and limited crop from a small town on the southern shores of Lake Toba, called Siborong-Borong. In Sumatra, where coffee is grown in rural backyard gardens, nearly all of this coffee is blended prior to export, making the flavours very special, offering the distinct flavour profile of a semi-washed Indonesian coffee, yielding full body and earthy notes. But what makes Sumatra Siborong-Borong especially extraordinary is its soft acidity, intense flavour and surprising herbal complexities with fresh basil notes
'Sumatra has been part of Starbucks' history for a quarter century, used in both blends and as a single-origin offering. In Sumatra, coffee is grown in abundance, nearly all is blended together prior to export. That is why Sumatra Siborong-Borong is very special as it's only available in a single offering not blended with any other coffee. Through Starbucks' relationships with farmers and exporters, Starbucks was able to obtain coffee grown in a single community and reserved this small batch to Starbucks customers. Starbucks Alshaya is delighted and honoured to share this coffee with coffee lovers in the region,' said Antoun Abou Jaoude, Marketing Manager for Starbucks Coffee Middle East.
Sumatra Siborong-Borong is grown in Lake Toba's most-prized coffee-growing area. The microclimate, volcanic soil, high-altitude and coffee stewardship helped produce this exceptional coffee. The climate is wet, so farmers must take extra care to protect the beans from moisture damage by delivering them to a centrally located mill the morning after harvest.
The Black Apron Exclusives™ coffees are named for Starbucks most knowledgeable buyers, roasters, tasters and Coffee Masters, who wear black aprons in the tasting rooms and in Starbucks coffeehouses. These coffees represent Starbucks expertise in coffee and dedication to the farmers who grow it. Black Apron Exclusives™ coffees are rare and intriguing, available in very limited supply and designed to appeal to people looking to experience truly unique and exotic flavours.
Starbucks awards US$15,000 for each Black Apron Exclusives™ coffee to help fund projects that support their communities, their environment and coffee sustainability. This award will be used to build three village clinics in Siborong-Borong coffee-producing areas. These new clinics will provide improved health care on a daily basis, benefiting approximately 3,000 of the area's residents.
'Sumatra Siborong-Borong is a C.A.F.E. (Coffee & Farmers Equity) Practices-verified coffee, ensuring the sustainable supply of high-quality coffee and preservation of farmers' rights where the coffee is sourced. Many people love Sumatra coffee, but few have ever experienced Sumatran flavours like these. This coffee beautifully packaged in a unique die-cut box is a rare treat, available only at selected Starbucks Alshaya stores across the Middle East. Customers can help support coffee-farming communities around the world by purchasing our Black Apron Exclusive coffees,' added Abou Jaoude.
SIBORONG BORONG !!!
http://www.starbucksstore.com/products/shprodde.asp?SKU=528215
Sumatra Siborong-Borong by Starbucks Coffee
Black Apron Exclusives™ #2 - 2007
Grown in Siborong-Borong—a town in the heart of Sumatra's Lake Toba coffee-growing region—this rare, full-bodied coffee offers a surprising complexity, soft acidity and hints of freshly cut basil.
More about this coffee:
Batak women pick the cherries and then pulp and wash them, all by hand. The wet parchment is set out to dry in the sun on tarps or woven mats in front of houses. This coffee is sorted by hand and delivered to market the day after harvest to ensure freshness.
More about Black Apron Exclusives™:
As the name suggests, Black Apron Exclusives™ coffee represent the very best in a lineup of outstanding coffees. Our tasters go to the ends of the earth, in search of beans whose flavors and unique characteristics earn them the highest honor we can bestow. In a show of appreciation, participating farmers receive a cash award for their unrivaled contributions. Since its introduction in April of 2004, the Black Apron Exclusives™ series has exceeded expectations both in flavor and in demand. The limited batches of these rare coffees are highly treasured and enjoyed for as long as we can keep them around.
Now all Starbucks® coffees are at your fingertips - StarbucksStore.com is the online resource for all Starbucks coffees. Buy Starbucks coffees - whole bean, ground, pods, caffeinated, decaf, single-origin, espressos, blends, organic, promotional/holiday/seasonal blends and Black Apron Exclusives™ - easily and conveniently, delivered to your home or office.
KOPI BALI
Kopi Robusta
Lokasi: Kab. Buleleng, TabananKopi Robusta Bali sudah mulai kembali diminati di pasar Timur Tengah. Kualitas produk kopi Robusta Bali mulai dapat meningkat karena para petani mulai melakukan panen buah yang sudah merah 100% dan proses pengolahan mulai dengan cara basah. Sampai dengan tahun 2005 luas areal kopi Robusta = 23.823 ha dengan volume produksi = 13.694 ton dengan sentra produksi di Kab. Tabanan dan Buleleng masing-masing memiliki produksi 5.483 ton dan 13.649 ton. Biji kopi Robusta relatif besar yaitu medium ke atas sampai large-bean. Produktivitas cukup tinggi dan para petani sudah mulai biasa panen buah kopi yang sudah berwarna merah 100%.
Prospek
Kopi Robusta Bali sangat diminati oleh para konsumen di Eropa dan Afrika. Penduduk Indonesia dengan jumlah ± 120 juta jiwa sudah terbiasa minum kopi Robusta. Kopi Robusta merupakan bahan baku kopi blending dengan kopi Arabika.Segmen Pasar
| 1. | Dalam negeri |
| 2. | Luar negeri: Afrika, Belanda, Asia |
Daya saing kopi Robusta mulai meningkat, bahan baku untuk industri primer masih cukup tersedia
| Kab. Tabanan | 27.415 ton buah kopi gelondong merah |
| Kab. Buleleng | 68.470 ton buah kopi gelondong merah |
Untuk industri hilir/sekunder tersedia bahan baku di Kab.:
| Kab. Tabanan | 5.483 ton kopi biji |
| Kab. Buleleng | 13.694 ton kopi biji |
Usaha agrobisnis kopi bubuk sudah ada dalam skala kecil dengan pangsa pasar lokal
Jenis Produk
| Bahan Mentah (RAW-material) | |
Diharapkan dapat menghasilkan produk hilir yaitu: kopi sangrai, kopi bubuk, dan turunan lainnya |
Daya dukung
| 1. | Sarana tranportasi sudah tersedia dan dalam kondisi baik (jalan menuju sentra produksi sudah diaspal). |
| 2. | Listrik sudah masuk ke seluruh desa. |
| 3. | Pemda Tabanan dan Buleleng mendukung kehadiran investor dalam bidang agroindustri. |
COFFEE
From http://www.vienna.cc/ekaffeez.htmPreparation of coffee
General hints
Begin with freshly roasted beans. Coffee loses taste quickly, as soon as it is roasted and grinded. Even some hours can make already a large difference! Buy therefore a Coffee-mill and grind the coffee freshly.
Pay attention to the used water. Water, which a strange taste and/or -smell influences the taste of coffee negatively. Viennese water (Hochquellwasser) has that necessary quality and is best choice for coffee. If your water tastes good, use it, if not, take filled or filtered water. To find out the difference, I can only recommend to brew your Favorite-drink using your water and later using filled or filtered water.
Consider when grinding, that different sorts of coffee, require different methods to grinding. How crude or fine coffee is, it is important for the preparation of good coffee! Coffee too fine grinded will delay the process the brewing and yield a bitterly tasting cup; if grinded coffee is too crude the process of brewing is accelerated and you will get a watery drink. Besides temperature and dampness influence the coffee.
Keep an eye on your coffeemachine, clean and oil it from time to time. Oils become rancid by time. The rancid oils influence the taste of your coffee negatively.
Brewing coffee
There are countless methods and secret recipes. The following list presented here can only be a start, not complete.
Filter coffee
Whether automatically or manually, the principle is equal: Hot water is filtered through grinded coffee. The coffee lies in a filter from porous material, mostly paper. Filters are formed either flat or to a funnel. Flat filters require crude grinded coffee, funnels require finely grinded coffee. A funnel is to be preferred for the preparation of a good coffee. At an automatic coffeemachine, never leave the brewed coffee in the can! It's getting better already after some minutes. For the storage take a good thermos-bottle. So the coffee keeps his specific taste.
French press
The French press is composed of a tank formed to a cup with a plunger of fine-netted wire, which is attached at the cover. This method of brewing coffee is quite common and can not only used for single cups but also for several cups at once. At this method a cup is preheated first by heated flowing water. Take middle-fine grinded coffee, give boiling water in the glass. Leave it three to four minutes. The plunger is put on and lowered as far as possible. This method may sound complicated, but in reality it is quite simple. Keep this point in mind, that the coffee, which you use in this method, should be grinded not too finely.
Espresso
With Espresso the largest possible taste is striven for at smallest water. This can be reached with high pressure. At the purchase of a Espresso-machine consider the following: Cheaper machines probably have fewer pressure and so produce a tasty, intense coffee-drink. Besides it is to be considered, that the coffee must be grinded finely. The crude the coffee, the fewer taste. The coffee should be grinded as fine as possible. Read the description of the Espresso-machine. How grinded coffee should be lastely dependends on the size of the holes in the metal-filter. Experiment a little. Do not take too much coffee, which makes Espresso taste bitterly. Espresso-machines are available in different completions: as desktop (standup) for many Espressos, which for gastronomy-organizations is interesting, as well as standup for the oven. The principle of working is equal.
Storage of coffee
How already mentions, coffee-beans will lose their taste rather quickly. Still more quickly after they are grinded. Following is recommended, to keep the taste:
Grind only before the preparation the coffee. Preserve therefore coffee as ungrinded, roasted beans. Logically you need a coffee-mill.
Preserve coffee in a locked, air-tight tank. Only in this way the coffee keeps its typical aroma. Keep the coffee cool, but no longer than two weeks. If you want to keep coffee longer than this period of time, so put it in a locked tank in a freezer.
General hints
Begin with freshly roasted beans. Coffee loses taste quickly, as soon as it is roasted and grinded. Even some hours can make already a large difference! Buy therefore a Coffee-mill and grind the coffee freshly.
Pay attention to the used water. Water, which a strange taste and/or -smell influences the taste of coffee negatively. Viennese water (Hochquellwasser) has that necessary quality and is best choice for coffee. If your water tastes good, use it, if not, take filled or filtered water. To find out the difference, I can only recommend to brew your Favorite-drink using your water and later using filled or filtered water.
Consider when grinding, that different sorts of coffee, require different methods to grinding. How crude or fine coffee is, it is important for the preparation of good coffee! Coffee too fine grinded will delay the process the brewing and yield a bitterly tasting cup; if grinded coffee is too crude the process of brewing is accelerated and you will get a watery drink. Besides temperature and dampness influence the coffee.
Keep an eye on your coffeemachine, clean and oil it from time to time. Oils become rancid by time. The rancid oils influence the taste of your coffee negatively.
Brewing coffee
There are countless methods and secret recipes. The following list presented here can only be a start, not complete.
Filter coffee
Whether automatically or manually, the principle is equal: Hot water is filtered through grinded coffee. The coffee lies in a filter from porous material, mostly paper. Filters are formed either flat or to a funnel. Flat filters require crude grinded coffee, funnels require finely grinded coffee. A funnel is to be preferred for the preparation of a good coffee. At an automatic coffeemachine, never leave the brewed coffee in the can! It's getting better already after some minutes. For the storage take a good thermos-bottle. So the coffee keeps his specific taste.
French press
The French press is composed of a tank formed to a cup with a plunger of fine-netted wire, which is attached at the cover. This method of brewing coffee is quite common and can not only used for single cups but also for several cups at once. At this method a cup is preheated first by heated flowing water. Take middle-fine grinded coffee, give boiling water in the glass. Leave it three to four minutes. The plunger is put on and lowered as far as possible. This method may sound complicated, but in reality it is quite simple. Keep this point in mind, that the coffee, which you use in this method, should be grinded not too finely.
Espresso
With Espresso the largest possible taste is striven for at smallest water. This can be reached with high pressure. At the purchase of a Espresso-machine consider the following: Cheaper machines probably have fewer pressure and so produce a tasty, intense coffee-drink. Besides it is to be considered, that the coffee must be grinded finely. The crude the coffee, the fewer taste. The coffee should be grinded as fine as possible. Read the description of the Espresso-machine. How grinded coffee should be lastely dependends on the size of the holes in the metal-filter. Experiment a little. Do not take too much coffee, which makes Espresso taste bitterly. Espresso-machines are available in different completions: as desktop (standup) for many Espressos, which for gastronomy-organizations is interesting, as well as standup for the oven. The principle of working is equal.
Storage of coffee
How already mentions, coffee-beans will lose their taste rather quickly. Still more quickly after they are grinded. Following is recommended, to keep the taste:
Grind only before the preparation the coffee. Preserve therefore coffee as ungrinded, roasted beans. Logically you need a coffee-mill.
Preserve coffee in a locked, air-tight tank. Only in this way the coffee keeps its typical aroma. Keep the coffee cool, but no longer than two weeks. If you want to keep coffee longer than this period of time, so put it in a locked tank in a freezer.
Kopi Gayo
Dari: http://kopigayo.blogspot.com/2008/03/pengolahan-kopi.html
PENGOLAHAN KOPI
Metode Pengolahan Kering
Metode ini sangat sederhana dan sering digunakan untuk kopi robusta dan juga 90 % kopi arabika di Brazil, buah kopi yang telah dipanen segera dikeringkan terutama buah yang telah matang. Pegeringan buah kopi dapat dilakukan dengan dua cara yaitu :
a. Pengeringan Alami
Pengeringan alami yaitu pengeringan dengan menggunakan sinar matahari, caranya sangat sederhana tidak memerlukan peralatan dan biaya yang besar tetapi memerlukan tempat pengeringan yang luas dan waktu pengeringan yang lama karena buah kopi mengandung gula dan pektin. Pengeringan biasanya dilakukan di daerah yang bersih, kering dan permukaan lantai yang rata, dapat berupa lantai plester semen atau tanah telanjang yang telah diratakan dan dibersihkan. Ketebalan pengeringan 30-40 mm, terutama pada awal kegiatan pengeringan untuk menghindari terjadinya proses fermentasi, Panas yang timbul pada proses ini akan mengakibatkan perubahan warna dan buah menjadi masak.
Pada awal pengeringan buah kopi yang masih basah harus sering dibalik dengan Blat penggaruk. Jenis mikroorganisme yang dapat berkembang biak pada kulit buah (exocarp) terutama jamur (fusarium sp, colletotrichum coffeanum) pada permukaan buah kopi yang terlalu kering (Aspergilus niger, penicillium sp, Rhizopus, sp) beberapa jenis ragi dan bakteri juga dapat berkembang. Lamanya proses pengeringan tergantung pada cuaca, ukuran buah kopi, tingkat kematangan dan kadar air dala,m buah kopi, biasanya proses pengeringan memakan waktu sekitar 3 sampai 4 minggu. Setelah proses pengeringan Kadar air akan menjadi sekitar 12 %.
b. Pengeringan Buatan (Artificial Drying)
Keuntungan pengeringan buatan,dapat menghemat biaya dan juga tenaga kerja hal yang perlu diperhatikanadalah pengaturan suhunya. Menurut Roelofsen, pengeringan sebaiknya padasuhu rendah yaitu 55°C akan menghasilkan buah kopi yang bewarna merah dantidak terlalu keras. Untuk buah kopi kering dengan KA rendah dikeringkan dengansuhu tidak terlalu tinggi sehingga tidak akan terjadi perubahan rasa. Peralatan pengeringan yang biasa digunakan : mesin pengering statik dengan alat penggaruk mekanik, mesin pengering dari drum yang berputar, mesin pengering vertikal.
Metode Pengolahan Basah
Proses Metode Pengolahan basah meliputi ; penerimaan, pulping, Klasifikasi,
fermentasi, pencucian, pengeringan, Pengawetan dan penyimpanan
a. Penerimaan
Hasil panen harus secepat mungkin dipindahkan ke tempat pemerosesan untuk menghindari pemanasan langsung yang dapat menyebabkan kerusakan (seperti : perubahan warna buah, buah kopi menjadi busuk).
Hasil panen dimasukkan kedalam tangki penerima yang dilengkapi dengan air untuk memindahkan buah kopi yang mengambang (buah kopi kering di pohon dan terkena penyakit (Antestatia, stephanoderes) dan biasanya diproses dengan pengolahan kering. Sedangkan buah kopi yang tidak mengambang (non floating) dipindahkan menuju bagian peniecah (pulper).
b. Pulping
Pulping bertujuan untuk memisahkan kopi dari kulit terluar dan mesocarp (bagian daging), hasilnya pulp. Prinsip kerjanya adalah melepaskan exocarp dan mesocarp buah kopi dimana prosesnya dilakukan dilakukan didalam air mengalir. Proses ini menghasilkan kopi hijau kering dengan jenis yang berbeda-beda. Macammacam alat pulper yang sering digunakan : Disc Pulper (cakram pemecah), Drum pulper, Raung Pulper, Roller pulper dan Vis pulper. Untuk di Indonesia yang sering digunakan adalah Vis Pulper dan Raung Pulper. Perbedaan pokok kedua alat ini adalah kalai Vis pulper hanya berfungsi sebagai pengupas kulit saja, sehingga hasilnya harus difermentasi dan dicuci lagi. Sedangkan raung pulper berfungsi sebagai pencuci sehingga kopi yang keluar dari mesin ini tidak perlu difermentasi dan dicuci lagi tetapi masuk ke tahap pengeringan.
c. Fermentasi
Proses fermentasi bertujuan untuk melepaskan daging buah berlendir (mucilage) yang masih melekat pada kulit tanduk dan pada proses pencucian akan mudah terlepas (terpisah) sehingga mempermudah proses pengeringan. Hidrolisis pektin disebabkan, oleh pektihase yang terdapat didalam buah atau reaksinya bias dipercepat dengan bantuan jasad renik. Proses fermentasi ini dapat terjadi, dengan bantuan jasad renik (Saccharomyces) yang disebut dengan proses peragian dan pemeraman. Biji kopi yang keluar dari mesin pulper dialirkan lewat saluran sebelum masuk bak fementasi.
Selama dalam pengaliran lewat saluran ini dapat dinamakan proses pencucian pendahuluan. Di dalam pencucian pendahuluan ini biji kopi yang berat (bernas) dapat dipisahkan dari sisa-sisa daging buah yang terbawa, lapisan lendir, biji-biji yang hampa karena bagian ini terapung di atas aliran air sehingga mudah dipisahkan.
Pengolahan kopi secara basah ini terbagi 3 cara proses fermentasinya :
1.Pengolahan cara basah tanpa fermentasi Biji kopi yang setelah melalui pencucian pendahuluan dapat langsung dikeringkan.
2.Pengolahan cara basah dengan fermentasi kering Biji kopi setelah pencucian pendahuluan lalu digundukan dalam bentuk gunungan kecil (kerucut) yang ditutup karung goni. Didalam gundukan itu segera terjadi proses fermentasi alami. Agar supaya proses fermentasi berlangsung secara merata, maka perlu dilakukan pengadukan dan pengundukan kembali sampai proses fermentasi dianggap selesai yaitu bila lapisan lendir mudah terlepas.
3.Pengolahan cara basah dengan fermentasi basah Setelah biji tersebut melewati proses pencucian pendahuluan segera ditimbun dan direndam dalam bak fermentasi. Bak fermentasi ini terbuat dari bak plester semen dengan alas miring. Ditengah-tengah dasar dibuat saluran dan ditutup dengan plat yang beriubang-lubang. Proses fermentasi di dalam bak-bak fermentasi terrsebut dilakukan bertingkat tingkat serta diselingi oleh pergantian air rendaman. Pada tingkat petama perendaman dilakukan selama 10 jam, Selama proses fermentasi ini dengan bantuan kegiatan jasad renik, terjadi pemecahan komponen lapisan lendir tersebut, maka akan terlepas dari permukaan kulit tanduk biji kopi.
Proses fermentasi akan berlangsung selama lebih kurang dari 1,5 sampai 4,5 hari tergantung pada keadaan iklim dan daerahnya. Proses fermentasi yang terlalu lama akan menghasilkan kopi beras yang berbau apek disebabkan oleh terjadinya pemecahan komponen isi putih lembaga.
Perubahan yang Terjadi selama Proses Fermentasi
1. Pemecahan Komponen mucilage
Bagian yang tepenting dari lapisan berlendir (getah) ini adalah komponen protopektin yaitu suatu "insoluble complex" tempat terjadinya meta cellular lactice dari daging buah. Material inilah yang terpecah dalam proses fementasi. Ada yang berpendapat bahwa tejadinya pemecahan getah itu adalah sebagai akibat bekerjanya suatu enzim yang terdapat dalam buah kopi. Enzim ini termasuk sejenis katalase yang akan memecah protopektin didalam buah kopi.
Kondisi fermentasi dengan pH 5.5-6.0, pemecahan getah akan berjalan cukup cepat. Apabila pH diturunkan menjadi ,4.0 maka kecepatan pemecahan akan menjadi 3 kali lebih cepat dan apabila pH 3.65 pemecahan akan menjadi dua kali lebih cepat. Dengan penambahan larutan penyangga fosfat sitrat maka kondisi pH akan dapat stabilbagi aktivitas protopektinase.
Dalam proses ferrmentasi dapat ditambahkan 0.025 persen enzim pektinase yang dihasilkan dari isolasi sejenis kacang. Dengan penambahan 0..025 persen enzim pektinase maka fementasi dapat berlangsung selama 5 sampai 10 jam dengan menaikkan suhu sedikit. Sedangkan bagi proses fermentasi yang alami diperlukanwaktu sekitar 36 jam. Pada waktu buah kopi tersebut mengalami pulping sebagian besar enzym tersebut terpisahkan dari kulit dan daging buah, akan tetapi sebagian kecil masih tertinggal dalam .bagian sari buah kopi.
2. Pemecahan Gula
Sukrosa merupakan komponen penting dalam daging buah kopi. Kadar gula akan meningkat dengan cepat selama proses pematangan buah yang dapat dikenal dengan adanya rasa manis.
Gula adalah senyawaan yang larut dalam air, oleh karena itu dengan adanya
proses pencucian lebih dari 15 menit akan banyak menyebabkan terjadinya
banyak kehilangan konsentrasinya. Proses difusi gula dari biji melalui parchment ke daging buah yang berjalan sangat lambat. Proses ini terjadi sewaktu perendaman dalam bak pengumpul dan pemisahan buah. Oleh karena itu kadar gula dalam daging biji akan mempengaruhi konsentrasi gula di dalam getah beberapa jam setelah fermentasi.
Sebagai hasil proses pemecahan gula adalah asam laktat dan asam asetatn dengan kadar asam laktat yang lebih besar. Asam-asam lain yang dihasilkan dari proses fert)entasi ini adalah etanol, asam butirat dan propionat. Asam lain akan memberikan onion flavor.
3. Perubahan Warna Kulit
Biji kopi yang telah terpisahkan dari pulp dan parchment maka kulit ari akan bewarna coklat. Juga jaringan daging biji akan bewarna sedikit kecoklatan yang tadinya bewarna abu-abu ata.u abu-abu kebiruan. Proses "browning" ini terjadi akibat oksidasi polifenol. Terjadinya warna kecoklatan yang kurang menarik ini dapat dicegah dalam proses fermentasi melalui pemakaian air pencucian yang bersifat alkalis.
d. Pencucian
Pencucian secara manual dilakukan pada biji kopi dari bak fementasi dialirkan dengan air melalui saluran dalam bak pencucian yang segera diaduk dengan tangan atau di injak-injak dengan kaki. Selama proses ini, air di dalam bak dibiarkan terus mengalir keluar dengan membawa bagian-bagian yang terapung beupa sisa-sisa lapisan lendir yang terlepas.
Pencucian biji dengan mesin pencucidilakukan dengan memasukkan biji kopi
tersebut kedalam suatu mesin pengaduk yang berputar pada sumbu horizontal dan mendorong biji kopi dengan air mengalir. Pengaduk mekanik ini akan memisahkan lapisan lendir yang masih melekat pada biji dan lapisan lendir yang masih melekat pada biji dan lapisan lendir yang telah terpisah ini akan terbuang lewat aliran air yang seterusnya dibuang.
e. Pengeringan
Pengeringan pendahuluan kopi parchment basah, kadar air berkurang dari 60 menjadi 53%. Sebagai alternatif kopi dapat dikeringkan dengan sinar matahari 2 atau 3 hari dan sering diaduk, Kadar air dapat mencapai 45 %. Pengeringan kopi Parchment dilanjutkan, dilakukan pada sinar matahari hingga kadar air mencapai 11 % yang pada akhirnya dapat menjaga stabilitas penyimpanan. Pengeringan biasanya dilakukan dengan menggunakan baki dengan penutupnya yang dapat digunakan sepanjang hari. Rata-rata pengeringan antara 10-15 hari. Pengeringan buatan (suhu tidak lebih dari 55°C) juga banyak digunakansejak pengeringan kopi alami menjadi lebih sulit dilakukan pada perkebunan yang lebih luas.
f. Curing
Proses selanjutnya baik kopi yang diproses secara kering maupun basah ialah curing yang bertujuan untuk menjaga penampilan sehingga baik untuk diekspor maupun diolah kembali. Tahapan proses curing ini meliputi :
- Pengeringan ulang
Kopi dari hasil pengolahan basah maupun kering harus dipastikan Kadar Airnya 11 %. Apabila tidak tercapai harus segera dilakukan pengeringan ulang, hal ini sangat penting dalam proses penyimpanan.
- Pembersihan (cleaning)
Buah kopi parchment kering yang dikeringkan secara alami banyak mengandung kotoran seperti kerikil, potongan besi, dan benda asing lainnya. Kotoran tersebut harus dihilangkan. Pembersihan dapat dilakukan dengan mengeluarkan kotoran dengan saringan untuk memindahkan kotoran yang berukuran besar, pemisah magnetik untuk memindahkan potongan baja, pemindahan debu dengan bantuanhembusan angin.
- Hulling.
Didalam mesin huller, maka biji kopi itu dihimpit dan diremas, dengan demikian kulit tanduk dan kulit arinya akan terlepas. Pecahan kulit tanduk dan kulit ari setelah keluar dari mesin huller tertiup dan terpisah dari biji kopi beras yang akan berjatuhan kebawah dan masuk ke dalam wadah.
g. Penyimpanan
Buah kopi dapat disimpan dalam bentuk buah kopi kering atau buah kopi parchment kering yang membutuhkan kondisi penyimpanan yang sama. Biji kopi KA air 11 % dan RH udara tidak lebih dari 74 %. Pada kondisi tersebut pertumbuhan jamur (Aspergilus niger, A. oucharaceous dan Rhizopus sp) akan minimal. Di Indonesia kopi yang sudah di klasifikasi mutunya disimpan didalam karung goni dan dijahit zigzag mulutnya dengan tali goni selanjutnya disimpan didalam gudang penyimpanan.
Syarat gudang penyimpanan kopi :
1. gudang mempunyai ventilasi yang cukup.
2. Suhu gudang optimum 20°C-25°C.
3. Gudang harus bersih, bebas dari hama penyakit serta bau asing.
4. Karung ditumpuk di lantai yang diben alas kayu setinggi 10 cm.
h. Standar Mutu Kopi
1. Pegolahan kering
- Kadar Air maksimum 13 % (bobot/bobot)
- Kadar kotoran berupa ranting, batu, gumpalan tanah dan benda-benda asing lainnya maksimum 0-5 % (bobot/bobot).
- Bebas dari serangga hidup.
- Bebas dari biji yang berrbau busuk, berbau kapang dan bulukan.
- Biji tidak lolos ayakan ukuran 3 mm x 3mm (8 mesh) dengan maksimum lolos 1 % (bobot/bobot).
- Untuk bisa disebut biji ukuran beger, harus memenuhi persyaratan tidak lolos ukuran (3,6 mesh) dengan maksimum lolos 1 % (bobot/bobot).
2. Pengolahan Basah
- Kadar air maksimum 12% (bobot/bobot)
- Kadar kotoran berupa ranting, batu, gumpalan tanah, dan berupa kotoran lainnya frlaksimum 0.5 % (bobot/bobot).
- Bebas dari serangga hidup
- Bebas dari biji yang berbau busuk, berbau kapang dan bulukan.
- Untuk robusta, dibedakan ukuran besar (L), sedang (M) dan kecil (S).
- Untuk jenis bukan robusta ukuran biji tidak dipersyaratkan.
(Ridwansyah/THP FP USU)
Marissa's Story
Dari : http://marissahaque.blogdetik.com/2008/11/25/kopi-dan-kenangan/
Tulisan untuk Media, Desember 2003
Photography by Fernandez Hutagalung
Oleh. Marissa Haque Fawzi Jakarta, 1 Desember 2003
Kopi dan kenangan
Hari ini, hari Minggu. Masih suasana liburan Lebaran 14.. Hijriah. Hari-hari terakhir sebelum aku akan kembali ditenggelamkan oleh segudang target kehidupan dan masa depan. Termenung aku duduk di Musholaku. Semilir bau tanah basah bekas hujan semalam. Bunga Kembang Sepatu merah tua seakan menyapa selamat pagi untukku yang sedang enggan mandi pagi. Kupandangi kursi tua yang kududuki, warisan ibuku. Kuraba sarung jok dibawah kimono katun yang kupakai. Rasanya baru saja kuganti seminggu sebelum lebaran, tapi entah kenapa getaran kuno dari kursi tua ini selalu melambungkanku pada suatu masa kebersamaan yang hangat. Masa-masa yang terekam kuat dibawah sadarku. Orang-orang yang dekat dihati, yang telah pergi sebanyak satu generasi. Ayah Ibuku, dan keluarga besar Ibuku yang aku kasihi.
Masih teringat dibenak saat kecil kami berempat—Shahnaz adikku yang terkecil belum lagi lahir—Mama, Papa, Soraya, dan aku berlibur dari pelosok kabupaten kecil di Plaju-Baguskuning, Palembang tempat ayahku bekerja sebagai karyawan Pertamina, menuju kota Bondowoso, Jawa Timur kampung masa kecil almarhumah Ibuku.
Sepanjang perjalanan dengan memakai pesawat Fokker F28, yang sudah sangat terasa mewah saat itu, kami pergi terlebih dahulu menuju Jakarta, kemudian transit melalui Surabaya diteruskan perjalanan melalui darat melewati daerah Pasir Putih, baru setelah itu tiba di Bondowoso, Jawa Timur. Kami menginap dirumah besar orang Belanda istri kedua sepupu Eyang Putriku. Karena tak memiliki anak dari perkawinannya, beliau menganggap Ibuku dan semua sepupunya sebagai anaknya sendiri. Perjalanan ini menjadi istimewa, karena tak lama setelah liburan kami, Oma Belanda itu meninggal dunia.
Ada benang merah yang membuat aku flash back kepada masa lalu. Tekstur kursi tua yang aku duduki warisan almarhumah ibuku dari rumah Belanda di Bondowoso dan aroma kopi tubruk dari cangkir yang aku gengam. Aroma ini sangat mirip dengan rekaman masa lalu bawah sadarku. Aroma yang memanggil-manggil. Ah,…wangi kopi! Bagaimana mungkin aku mengacuhkan keberadaan kopi, karena sejak diperkenalkannya di Bondowoso saat aku kecil, aku selalu ingin tahu lebih jauh. Bukan hanya karena suka akan rasa dan aromanya, akan tetapi kepada hikayat cerita yang melengkapinya. Membawa aku berkelana jauh dimasa ratusan tahun dibelakang. Oma Belanda ini sangat faham sejarah dunia, beliau juga sangat tahu nama-nama jenis kopi yang ditanam serta dibudidayakan disekitar rumah besarnya. Ya, beliau dan suaminya yang orang Jawa Timur adalah pemilik lahan luas perkebunan kopi Bondowoso saat itu.
Masih teringat bagaimana aku sambil terkantuk duduk bersandar dibahunya, mendengar dengan seksama cerita-cerita memikat. Diceritakan bahwa biji kopi yang terbaik dari Bondowoso adalah yang sudah dimakan Musang, yang keluar bersama kotorannya. Saat itu biji kopi juga bisa didapatkan dari berbagai perkebunan lain ditanah air. Antara lain dari Aceh, Medan, Toraja, Timor, juga daerah tetangganya di Jawa Timur, Jember. Biji-biji kopi yang merah tua itu disimpan dalam karung goni digudang selama lima sampai tujuh tahunan. Biji- biji tersebut kemudian dijemur dibawah sinar matahai selama minimal tujuh jam. Setelah itu ditumbuk, disangrai, setelahnya digiling. Wah, bahagianya aku dapat membayangkan seluruh proses produksinya. Bahan informasi awal inilah yang membuat aku hari ini bersiap- siap “pulang kampung” ke Bondowoso, bernostalgia tentang keberadaan lingkungan perkebunan kopi tersebut terutama melihat kondisinya setelah terkena landreform beberapa belas tahun yang lalu, serta melihat kemungkinan membuat film dokumenter tentang Kopi Arabika asal Jawa Timur.
Cerita sang Oma semakin memikatku, apalagi setelah diperkaya oleh hikayat perdagangan yang dilakukan orang-orang Belanda di Nusantara sebelum sang Oma lahir, kerjasama yang didasarkan secara berat sebelah oleh Kompeni, orang-orang bumi putra yang merebut kembali kekuasaan tanah ulayat milik adat, serta percintaan “terlarang” nya dengan Eyang Kakung yang tidak utuh kuserap karena faktor usia. Kuingat Soraya sudah asyik terlelap dikasur lebar, dikaki Oma Belanda bersama para sepupu yang lain.
Sang Oma juga membagi resep, beliau mengatakan bahwa baginya usaha kopi sangat kaya seni. Seluruh proses produksi—diluar pembudidayaan kebun—dipegangnya sendiri. Ia berprinsip menjual kopi yang harus fresh. “Cara” baginya adalah sangat penting, jumlah bukan bidikan pertama. Setiap kesalahan berproses adalah proses belajar itu sendiri, kata beliau. Kata-kata ini juga yang selalu terekam dibawah sadarku, bahwa sebuah proses belajar tidak ada yang instant. Hasil akhir biarkan menjadi misteri, yang penting adalah menikmati proses belajarnya. Karena belajar itu asyik. Harus proaktif mendatangi beberapa pakar, tidak malu untuk bertanya, serta menjalin silaturahmi berkala kepada siapa saja yang bermurah hati untuk membagi ilmunya—karena menurut beliau didunia ini tidak banyak orang ikhlas yang tulus mau berbagi ilmu pada sesama.
Dan detik ini, aku lupa bahwa aku belum menyiapkan sarapan apapun untuk keluargaku. Bik Inah pembantu yang sudah ikut puluhan tahun di dalam keluargaku masih pulang kampung, belum balik lagi. Jadi sebenarnya inilah saat yang paling tepat bagiku untuk mengekspresikan rasa cinta pada keluarga melalui perut. Salah satunya adalah dengan menuangkan kopi dalam cangkir-cangkir keramik biru kesayangan. Yang sedikit besar untuk Ikang suamiku, sementara ukuran sedang untuk Mertuaku. Anak-anakku menyukai rasa kopi didalam campuran Mocca Cream dalam mug besar. Aku ingin meneruskan kebiasaan berdiskusi ringan dengan mereka semua dimeja makan. Tentang apa saja. Tentang headline dikoran hari ini, tentang Politik, Ekonomi, atau Sosial dan Budaya. Bila diskusi tidak nyambung, tidak mengapa. Aku ingin menciptakan suasana cerdas dimeja makan. Juga penting membina kebiasaan mengutarakan pendapat dengan cara yang santun dan terasah. Mertuaku yang mantan Diplomat Karir biasanya menjadi mentor informal. Sehingga Kopi bagiku bukan sekedar minuman belaka, tetapi juga adalah perekat tali emosi didalam keluarga.
Sementara itu diluar rumah, aku sering sekali memilih Coffee House atau Coffee Lounge sebagai meeting point walau sekedar social chat demi menyambung silaturahmi. Lebih serius lagi sering pula menjadi tempat membina relationship dengan relasi bisnis.
Kopi memang selalu menarik. Semenarik harumnya yang selalu membuat orang mau tidak mau—walau sekedar hanya untuk menghirup aroma— menyita minimal satu atau dua detik untuk menikmatinya.
Aroma Kopi, bagiku adalah aroma cerdas dan elegant.
-- marissa haque (marissahaque@bali-marissa.com), December 02, 2003.
Tulisan untuk Media, Desember 2003
Photography by Fernandez Hutagalung
Oleh. Marissa Haque Fawzi Jakarta, 1 Desember 2003
Kopi dan kenangan
Hari ini, hari Minggu. Masih suasana liburan Lebaran 14.. Hijriah. Hari-hari terakhir sebelum aku akan kembali ditenggelamkan oleh segudang target kehidupan dan masa depan. Termenung aku duduk di Musholaku. Semilir bau tanah basah bekas hujan semalam. Bunga Kembang Sepatu merah tua seakan menyapa selamat pagi untukku yang sedang enggan mandi pagi. Kupandangi kursi tua yang kududuki, warisan ibuku. Kuraba sarung jok dibawah kimono katun yang kupakai. Rasanya baru saja kuganti seminggu sebelum lebaran, tapi entah kenapa getaran kuno dari kursi tua ini selalu melambungkanku pada suatu masa kebersamaan yang hangat. Masa-masa yang terekam kuat dibawah sadarku. Orang-orang yang dekat dihati, yang telah pergi sebanyak satu generasi. Ayah Ibuku, dan keluarga besar Ibuku yang aku kasihi.
Masih teringat dibenak saat kecil kami berempat—Shahnaz adikku yang terkecil belum lagi lahir—Mama, Papa, Soraya, dan aku berlibur dari pelosok kabupaten kecil di Plaju-Baguskuning, Palembang tempat ayahku bekerja sebagai karyawan Pertamina, menuju kota Bondowoso, Jawa Timur kampung masa kecil almarhumah Ibuku.
Sepanjang perjalanan dengan memakai pesawat Fokker F28, yang sudah sangat terasa mewah saat itu, kami pergi terlebih dahulu menuju Jakarta, kemudian transit melalui Surabaya diteruskan perjalanan melalui darat melewati daerah Pasir Putih, baru setelah itu tiba di Bondowoso, Jawa Timur. Kami menginap dirumah besar orang Belanda istri kedua sepupu Eyang Putriku. Karena tak memiliki anak dari perkawinannya, beliau menganggap Ibuku dan semua sepupunya sebagai anaknya sendiri. Perjalanan ini menjadi istimewa, karena tak lama setelah liburan kami, Oma Belanda itu meninggal dunia.
Ada benang merah yang membuat aku flash back kepada masa lalu. Tekstur kursi tua yang aku duduki warisan almarhumah ibuku dari rumah Belanda di Bondowoso dan aroma kopi tubruk dari cangkir yang aku gengam. Aroma ini sangat mirip dengan rekaman masa lalu bawah sadarku. Aroma yang memanggil-manggil. Ah,…wangi kopi! Bagaimana mungkin aku mengacuhkan keberadaan kopi, karena sejak diperkenalkannya di Bondowoso saat aku kecil, aku selalu ingin tahu lebih jauh. Bukan hanya karena suka akan rasa dan aromanya, akan tetapi kepada hikayat cerita yang melengkapinya. Membawa aku berkelana jauh dimasa ratusan tahun dibelakang. Oma Belanda ini sangat faham sejarah dunia, beliau juga sangat tahu nama-nama jenis kopi yang ditanam serta dibudidayakan disekitar rumah besarnya. Ya, beliau dan suaminya yang orang Jawa Timur adalah pemilik lahan luas perkebunan kopi Bondowoso saat itu.
Masih teringat bagaimana aku sambil terkantuk duduk bersandar dibahunya, mendengar dengan seksama cerita-cerita memikat. Diceritakan bahwa biji kopi yang terbaik dari Bondowoso adalah yang sudah dimakan Musang, yang keluar bersama kotorannya. Saat itu biji kopi juga bisa didapatkan dari berbagai perkebunan lain ditanah air. Antara lain dari Aceh, Medan, Toraja, Timor, juga daerah tetangganya di Jawa Timur, Jember. Biji-biji kopi yang merah tua itu disimpan dalam karung goni digudang selama lima sampai tujuh tahunan. Biji- biji tersebut kemudian dijemur dibawah sinar matahai selama minimal tujuh jam. Setelah itu ditumbuk, disangrai, setelahnya digiling. Wah, bahagianya aku dapat membayangkan seluruh proses produksinya. Bahan informasi awal inilah yang membuat aku hari ini bersiap- siap “pulang kampung” ke Bondowoso, bernostalgia tentang keberadaan lingkungan perkebunan kopi tersebut terutama melihat kondisinya setelah terkena landreform beberapa belas tahun yang lalu, serta melihat kemungkinan membuat film dokumenter tentang Kopi Arabika asal Jawa Timur.
Cerita sang Oma semakin memikatku, apalagi setelah diperkaya oleh hikayat perdagangan yang dilakukan orang-orang Belanda di Nusantara sebelum sang Oma lahir, kerjasama yang didasarkan secara berat sebelah oleh Kompeni, orang-orang bumi putra yang merebut kembali kekuasaan tanah ulayat milik adat, serta percintaan “terlarang” nya dengan Eyang Kakung yang tidak utuh kuserap karena faktor usia. Kuingat Soraya sudah asyik terlelap dikasur lebar, dikaki Oma Belanda bersama para sepupu yang lain.
Sang Oma juga membagi resep, beliau mengatakan bahwa baginya usaha kopi sangat kaya seni. Seluruh proses produksi—diluar pembudidayaan kebun—dipegangnya sendiri. Ia berprinsip menjual kopi yang harus fresh. “Cara” baginya adalah sangat penting, jumlah bukan bidikan pertama. Setiap kesalahan berproses adalah proses belajar itu sendiri, kata beliau. Kata-kata ini juga yang selalu terekam dibawah sadarku, bahwa sebuah proses belajar tidak ada yang instant. Hasil akhir biarkan menjadi misteri, yang penting adalah menikmati proses belajarnya. Karena belajar itu asyik. Harus proaktif mendatangi beberapa pakar, tidak malu untuk bertanya, serta menjalin silaturahmi berkala kepada siapa saja yang bermurah hati untuk membagi ilmunya—karena menurut beliau didunia ini tidak banyak orang ikhlas yang tulus mau berbagi ilmu pada sesama.
Dan detik ini, aku lupa bahwa aku belum menyiapkan sarapan apapun untuk keluargaku. Bik Inah pembantu yang sudah ikut puluhan tahun di dalam keluargaku masih pulang kampung, belum balik lagi. Jadi sebenarnya inilah saat yang paling tepat bagiku untuk mengekspresikan rasa cinta pada keluarga melalui perut. Salah satunya adalah dengan menuangkan kopi dalam cangkir-cangkir keramik biru kesayangan. Yang sedikit besar untuk Ikang suamiku, sementara ukuran sedang untuk Mertuaku. Anak-anakku menyukai rasa kopi didalam campuran Mocca Cream dalam mug besar. Aku ingin meneruskan kebiasaan berdiskusi ringan dengan mereka semua dimeja makan. Tentang apa saja. Tentang headline dikoran hari ini, tentang Politik, Ekonomi, atau Sosial dan Budaya. Bila diskusi tidak nyambung, tidak mengapa. Aku ingin menciptakan suasana cerdas dimeja makan. Juga penting membina kebiasaan mengutarakan pendapat dengan cara yang santun dan terasah. Mertuaku yang mantan Diplomat Karir biasanya menjadi mentor informal. Sehingga Kopi bagiku bukan sekedar minuman belaka, tetapi juga adalah perekat tali emosi didalam keluarga.
Sementara itu diluar rumah, aku sering sekali memilih Coffee House atau Coffee Lounge sebagai meeting point walau sekedar social chat demi menyambung silaturahmi. Lebih serius lagi sering pula menjadi tempat membina relationship dengan relasi bisnis.
Kopi memang selalu menarik. Semenarik harumnya yang selalu membuat orang mau tidak mau—walau sekedar hanya untuk menghirup aroma— menyita minimal satu atau dua detik untuk menikmatinya.
Aroma Kopi, bagiku adalah aroma cerdas dan elegant.
-- marissa haque (marissahaque@bali-marissa.com), December 02, 2003.
Clearing The Java Confusion
Java island is mountainous with numerous active volcanoes. The climate is muggy year-round, often punctuated by monsoon rains. Along with the fertile soil that surround the volcanic areas, the early Dutch settlers found these conditions to be very conducive to growing coffee.
Arabica was introduced to Indonesia in the 17th century and this was planted vigorously by the Dutch colonial government. The Arabica was eventually wiped out for the cleaning for upholstery part by a plague known as coffee rust although coffee plants in other regions were not affected. Robusta was the logical alternative because of its resistance to diseases.
Later on in the early 20th century, the colonial government would build the infrastructure to confine the growth of coffee to East and Central Java. East Java would produce Arabica simply because of their more mountainous regions while Central Java primarily produced Robusta.
Today Indonesia is the biggest producer of coffee in Southeast Asia and third in the world. The coffees they export are from both the Arabica and Robusta stocks although gourmet coffee makes up only about ten upholstery cleaning of their export. This is due mainly to the roles that the plague along with World War II and internal political strife have played in forming the Indonesian coffee industry.
Arabica from Indonesia are primarily from the islands of Java, Sumatra and Sulawesi. Sumatra is also mountainous with active volcanoes. The highlands to the north and west of Sumatra produces very high quality Arabica beans. Sulawesi coffee is similar in character and appearance to the Sumatran.
Even though Java is the most well-known of Indonesian coffee exports, many experts agree that Sumatra coffee is the best of the lot owing to a fruity and syrupy taste. It is unclear why coffee window cleaning today have equated the word java with coffee itself. One story tells us that because coffee from Java was so popular at the time, merchants would brand their coffee with that name in order to capitalize on its popularity as well as increase sales. As you can see, brand marketing was very much alive in the 18th century.
And because brand marketing is often mischievous and creates a lot of unnecessary hype. As a result, buying a bag of coffee can suddenly be confusing especially when the word "Java" is present in the packaging. Are you actually buying coffee of the gourmet variety from the island of Java best upholstery cleaning some plain coffee using the term just to make it a more attractive, not to mention expensive, commodity? Adding to the mess, when looking up the word itself on the search engines can take you to pages of undecipherable computer programming language when all you wanted was a hot cup.
That being said, when looking specifically for Indonesian coffee, the most common is Java Estate. But if you want a treat, look beyond Java and let your taste buds feast on Sumatra Mandehling instead. It is sure to erase any confusion.
Arabica was introduced to Indonesia in the 17th century and this was planted vigorously by the Dutch colonial government. The Arabica was eventually wiped out for the cleaning for upholstery part by a plague known as coffee rust although coffee plants in other regions were not affected. Robusta was the logical alternative because of its resistance to diseases.
Later on in the early 20th century, the colonial government would build the infrastructure to confine the growth of coffee to East and Central Java. East Java would produce Arabica simply because of their more mountainous regions while Central Java primarily produced Robusta.
Today Indonesia is the biggest producer of coffee in Southeast Asia and third in the world. The coffees they export are from both the Arabica and Robusta stocks although gourmet coffee makes up only about ten upholstery cleaning of their export. This is due mainly to the roles that the plague along with World War II and internal political strife have played in forming the Indonesian coffee industry.
Arabica from Indonesia are primarily from the islands of Java, Sumatra and Sulawesi. Sumatra is also mountainous with active volcanoes. The highlands to the north and west of Sumatra produces very high quality Arabica beans. Sulawesi coffee is similar in character and appearance to the Sumatran.
Even though Java is the most well-known of Indonesian coffee exports, many experts agree that Sumatra coffee is the best of the lot owing to a fruity and syrupy taste. It is unclear why coffee window cleaning today have equated the word java with coffee itself. One story tells us that because coffee from Java was so popular at the time, merchants would brand their coffee with that name in order to capitalize on its popularity as well as increase sales. As you can see, brand marketing was very much alive in the 18th century.
And because brand marketing is often mischievous and creates a lot of unnecessary hype. As a result, buying a bag of coffee can suddenly be confusing especially when the word "Java" is present in the packaging. Are you actually buying coffee of the gourmet variety from the island of Java best upholstery cleaning some plain coffee using the term just to make it a more attractive, not to mention expensive, commodity? Adding to the mess, when looking up the word itself on the search engines can take you to pages of undecipherable computer programming language when all you wanted was a hot cup.
That being said, when looking specifically for Indonesian coffee, the most common is Java Estate. But if you want a treat, look beyond Java and let your taste buds feast on Sumatra Mandehling instead. It is sure to erase any confusion.
Pentingnya Perlindungan Indikasi Geografis atas Produk Lokal
Jakarta - Di tengah gencarnya penerapan kesepakatan Organisasi Perdagangan Dunia (WTO) mengenai pengakuan atas hak kekayaan intelektual (TRIPS) dalam beberapa tahun terakhir, upaya-upaya meningkatkan perlindungan atas produk-produk yang menunjukkan kekhasan daerah tertentu makin meningkat. Itulah yang dinamakan sebagai indikasi geografis, yang menunjukkan bahwa barang yang dibuat memang berasal dan dijual dari wilayah aslinya dengan menunjukkan cita rasa yang unik dan kualitas yang khas.
Di Indonesia sebenarnya banyak komoditas khas yang dapat ditonjolkan dan dilindungi melalui penerapan peraturan indikasi geografis sehingga menguntungkan para produsen lokal. Sayangnya, perlindungan indikasi geografis tersebut belum diterapkan di Indonesia sehingga produk-produk lokal dapat dengan mudah “dibajak” oleh produsen asing.
Hal tersebut terungkap saat beberapa pakar perdagangan internasional bertemu di Jakarta, 6-7 Desember. Bersama dengan beberapa pejabat dan produsen lokal, mereka membicarakan potensi penerapan perlindungan indikasi geografis atas produk-produk komoditas khas Indonesia.
Belum Dilindungi Hukum
Pengamat komoditas dari Pusat Penelitian Kopi dan Kakao Indonesia, Surip Mawardi, mengungkapkan bahwa sebagai negara kepulauan yang memiliki lebih dari 17.000 pulau dan keragaman hayati, Indonesia memiliki banyak produk lokal yang unik dan beragam. Contohnya kopi toraja, pala banda, batik pekalongan, lukisan bali-batuan, ubi cilembu, lada hitam lampung, kayu manis sumatera barat, jeruk nambangan, sarung samarinda, dan lain-lain. “Sayangnya belum ada satu pun produk asal Indonesia yang dilindungi perangkat hukum tentang indikasi geografis,” kata Stephane Passeri, pejabat dari EC-ASEAN Intelletual Property Rights Cooperation Program (ECAP). Oleh karena itu, menurut Passeri, tidak mengherankan bila produk-produk khas di Indonesia rentan dibajak dan dipalsukan.
Ironisnya, kendati terkenal kopi toraja terkesan sudah menjadi milik asing. Menurut Surip, sejumlah perusahaan kopi asing menggunakan beberapa merek dagang yang menggunakan nama Toraja, seperti Avance Toraja Coffee (Jepang), Brooks Toraja (Jepang), Ariosto Toraja Arabica Coffee Sulawesi (Jepang), Toradja Prince Coffee (Belanda) dan Toarco Toraja Coffee (Jepang). Selain itu, karena harga kopi toraja pada pertengahan 1980-an sampai dengan 1990-an dikenal lebih mahal dari kopi arabika dan kopi dari daerah-daerah lain, maka memicu terjadinya pemalsuan kopi toraja. “Akibatnya mutu menurun, bahkan menjadi inferior dan kualitasnya tidak stabil, sehingga harga jatuh,” kata Surip.
Segera Disosialisasikan
Mengenai rendahnya kualitas produk-produk khas lokal seperti kopi toraja dan lain-lain, menurut Passeri, itulah sebabnya mengapa komoditas yang sudah bernilai tambah asal Indonesia kurang diterima di pasaran Eropa. “Produk-produk khas negeri Anda terkenal tidak konsisten dari segi kualitas dan pengemasan. Salah satu sebabnya, kurangnya kesadaran dari kalangan produsen lokal mengenai pentingnya perlindungan indikasi geografis,” kata Passeri. Dia menilai bahwa Indonesia ketinggalan dengan beberapa negara Asia Tenggara lainnya seperti Thailand dan Vietnam yang sudah menerapkan perlindungan indikasi geografis atas beberapa produk lokal.
Ketertinggalan Indonesia tersebut diakui Direktorat Jenderal (Ditjen) Hak atas Kekayaan Intelektual (HAKI) Departemen Hukum dan HAM Indonesia, yang mengakui belum ada asosiasi atau institusi di tanah air yang khusus menangani perlindungan indikasi geografis. “Tanpa dilindungi peraturan indikasi geografis, daya saing produksi kita menjadi lemah sehingga harga produk asal Indonesia di pasaran menjadi sangat murah,” kata Emawati Junus, Direktur Merek dari Ditjen HAKI.
“Bila sudah ada perlindungan indikasi geografis, produk khas wilayah yang bersangkutan tidak boleh diklaim atau dipalsukan oleh perusahaan di tempat lain atau di negara lain,” kata Passeri. Bila ada pelanggaran atas peraturan indikasi geografis, si pelanggar akan mendapat sanksi baik secara bilateral maupun di tingkat multilateral seperti di WTO. Sedangkan Emawati mengungkapkan, pemerintah sedang menyiapkan peraturan mengenai perlindungan indikasi geografis atas produk Indonesia sejak setahun lalu. “Sebanyak 95 persen telah rampung dan akan segera disosialisasikan ke semua provinsi,” kata Emawati. (renne kawilarang)
COFFEE IN INDONESIA
Indonesia produced 420,000 metric tons of coffee in 2007. Of this total, 271,000 tons were exported and 148,000 tons were consumed domestically. Of the exports, 25% are Coffea arabica and the balance is Coffea canephora. [1] In general, Indonesia’s Arabica coffees have low acidity and strong body, which makes them ideal for blending with higher acidity coffees from Central America and East Africa.
1 History
2 Cultivation
3 Sumatra, Mandheling, Lintong and Gayo
4 Sulawesi, Toraja, Kalosi, Mamasa and Gowa
5 Java
6 Bali
7 Flores
8 Papua
9 Harvesting and processing
10 Coffee research
11 Coffee Associations
12 See also
13 Notes
14 External links
15 Further reading
History
The Dutch governor in Malabar (India) sent a Yemeni or Arabica coffee (Coffea arabica) seedling to the Dutch governor of Batavia (now Jakarta) in 1696. The first seedlings failed due to flooding in Batavia. A second shipments of seedlings was sent in 1699. The plants grew, and in 1711 the first exports were sent from Java to Europe by the Dutch East India Company, known by its Dutch initials VOC (Verininging Oogst-Indies Company which was established in 1602. Within 10 years, exports rose to 60 tons per year. Indonesia was the first place, outside of Arabia and Ethiopia, where coffee was widely cultivated. VOC monopolized coffee trading in 1725 to 1780.
The coffee was shipped to Europe from the port of Batavia (now Jakarta). There has been a port at the mouth of Ciliwung River since 397 AD, when King Purnawarman established the city he called Sunda Kelapa. Today, in the Kota area of Jakarta, one can find echoes of the sea-going legacy that built the city. Sail driven ships still load cargo in the old port. The Bahari museum occupies a former warehouse of the VOC, which was used to store spices and coffee. Menara Syahbandar (or Lookout Tower) was built in 1839 to replace the flag pole that stood at the head of wharves, where the VOC ships docked to load their cargos.[2]
In the 1700s, coffee shipped from Batavia sold for 3 Guilders per kilogram in Amsterdam. Since annual incomes in Holland in the 1700s were between 200 to 400 Guilders, this was equivalent of several hundred dollars per kilogram today. By the end of the 18th century, the price had dropped to 0.6 Guilders per kilogram and coffee drinking spread from the elite to the general population.[3]
The coffee trade was very profitable for the VOC, but less so for the Indonesian farmers who were forced to grow it by the colonial government. In theory, production of export crops was meant to provide cash for Javanese villagers to pay their taxes. This was in Dutch known as the Cultuurstelsel (Cultivation system), and it covered spices and a wide range of other tropical cash crops. Cultuur stelsel was iniated on coffee at Preanger region of West Java. In practice however, the prices set for the cash crops by the government were too low and they diverted labor from rice production, causing great hardship for farmers.
By mid of 1970’s the Ducth East Indies expanded Arabica coffee growing areas in Sumatra, Bali, Sulawesi and Timor. In Sulawesi the coffee was first planted in 1750. In North Sumatra highlands coffee was first grown near Lake Toba in 1888, followed in Gayo highland (Aceh) near Lake Laut Tawar in 1924.
In 1860, a Dutch colonial official, Eduard Douwes Dekker, wrote a book called “Max Havelaar and the Coffee Auctions of the Dutch Trading Company”, which exposed the oppression of villagers by corrupt and greedy officials. This book helped to change Dutch public opinion about the “Cultivation System” and colonialism in general. More recently, the name Max Havelaar was adopted by one of the first fair trade organizations.[3]
In the late eighteen hundreds, Dutch colonialists established large coffee plantations on the Ijen Plateau in eastern Java. In the 1920’s smallholders throughout Indonesia began to grow coffee as a cash crop. However, disaster struck in the 1876, when the coffee rust disease swept through Indonesia, wiping out most of Typica cultivar. Robusta coffee (C. canephor var. robusta) was introduced to East Java in 1900 as a substitute, especially at lower altitudes, where the rust was particularly devastating.
The plantations on Java were nationalized at independence and revitalized with new varieties of Coffea arabica in the 1950s. These varieties were also adopted by smallholders through the government and various development programs.
Cultivation
Today, more than 90% of Indonesia’s coffee is grown by smallholders on farms averaging one hectare or less. Much of the production is organic and 19 farmers’ cooperatives and exporters are internationally certified to market organic coffee. There are more than 20 varieties of Coffea arabica being grown commercially in Indonesia. They fall into six main categories:
Typica – this is the original cultivar introduced by the Dutch. Much of the Typica was lost in the late 1880s, when Coffee Leaf Rust swept through Indonesia. However, both the Bergandal and Sidikalang varieties of Typica can still be found in Sumatra, especially at higher altitudes.
Hibrido de Timor (HDT) – This variety, which is also called “Tim Tim”, is a natural cross between Arabica and Robusta. It was first collected in East Timor in 1978 and planted in Aceh in 1979.
Linie S – This is a group of varieties was originally developed in India, from the Bourbon cultivar. The most common are S-288 and S-795, which are found in Lintong, Aceh, Flores and other areas.
Ethiopian lines - These include Rambung and Abyssinia, which were brought to Java in 1928. Since then, they have been brought to Aceh as well. Another group of Ethiopian varieties found in Sumatra are called “USDA”, after an American project that brought them to Indonesia in the 1950s.
Caturra cultivars: Caturra is a mutation of Bourbon coffee, which originated in Brazil.
Catimor lines – This cross between Arabica and Robusta has a reputation for poor flavor. However, there are numerous types of Catimor, including one that farmers have named “Ateng-Jaluk”. On-going research in Aceh has revealed locally adapted Catimor varieties with excellent cup characteristics.
Sumatra, Mandheling, Lintong and Gayo
Coffee from this western-most island in Indonesia is intriguing and complex, due to the large number of small-holder producers and the unique “Giling Basah” (wet hulling) processing technique they use. At the green bean stage, coffee from this area has a distinctive bluish color, which is attributed to processing method and lack of iron in the soil.
Coffees from Sumatra are known for smooth, sweet body that is balanced and intense. Depending on the region, or blend of regions, the flavors of the land and processing can be very pronounced. Notes of cocoa, tobacco, smoke, earth and cedar wood can show well in the cup. Occasionally, Sumatran coffees can show greater acidity, which balances the body. This acidity takes on tropical fruit notes and sometimes an impression of grapefruit or lime.
Mandheling is a trade name, used for Arabica coffee from northern Sumatra. It was derived from the name of the Mandailing people, who produce coffee in the Tapanuli region of Sumatra. Mandheling coffee comes from Northern Sumatra, as well as Aceh. Lintong
Lintong coffee is grown in the District of Lintongnihuta, to the south-west of Lake Toba. This large lake is one of the deepest in the world, at 505 meters. The coffee production area is a high plateau, known for its diversity of tree fern species. This area produces 15,000 to 18,000 tons of Arabica per year. A neighboring region, called Sidikilang, also produces Arabica coffee.
Gayo Mountain coffee is grown on the hillsides surrounding the town of Takegon and Lake Tawar, at the northern tip of Sumatra, in the region of Aceh. The altitude in the production area averages between 1,110 and 1,300 meters. The coffee is grown by small-holders, under shade trees.
Coffee from this region is generally processed at farm-level, using traditional wet methods. Due to the Giling Basha processing, Gayo Mountain coffee is described as higher toned and lighter bodied than Lintong and Mandheling coffees from further east in Sumatra.
Sulawesi, Toraja, Kalosi, Mamasa and Gowa
The Indonesian island of Sulawesi, formerly called the Celebes, lies to the north of Flores. The primary region for high altitude Arabica production is a mountainous area called Tana Toraja, at the central highlands of South Sulawesi. To the south of Toraja is the region of Enrekang. The capital of this region is Kalosi, which is a well known brand of specialty coffee. The regions of Mamasa (to the west of Toraja) and Gowa (to the south of Kalosi), also produce Arabica, although they are less well known.
Unlike many of Indonesia’s islands, Sulawesi is geologically ancient, dating back more than 100 million years. This long history has resulted in soils with a high iron content – thought to affect coffee flavor.
Sulawesi coffees are clean and sound in the cup. They generally display nutty or warm spice notes, like cinnamon or cardamom. Hints of black pepper are sometimes found. Their sweetness, as with most Indonesian coffees, is closely related to the body of the coffee. The aftertaste coats the palate on the finish and is smooth and soft.
Most of Sulawesi’s coffee is grown by small-holders, with about 5% coming from seven larger estates. The people of Tana Toraja build distinctively shaped houses and maintain ancient and complex rituals related to death and the afterlife. This respect for tradition is also found in way that small-holders process their coffee. Sulawesi farmers use a unique process called “Giling Basah” (wet hulling).
Java
Java’s Arabica coffee production is centered on the Ijen Plateau, at the eastern end of Java, at an altitude of more than 1,400 meters. The coffee is primarily grown on large estates that were built by the Dutch in the 18th century. The five largest estates are Blawan (also spelled Belawan or Blauan), Jampit (or Djampit), Pancoer (or Pancur), Kayumas and Tugosari, and they cover more than 4,000 hectares.
These estates transport ripe cherries quickly to their mills after harvest. The pulp is then fermented and washed off, using the wet process, with rigorous quality control. This results in coffee with good, heavy body and a sweet overall impression. They are sometimes rustic in their flavor profiles, but display a lasting finish. At their best, they are smooth and supple and sometimes have a subtle herbaceous note in the aftertaste.
This coffee is prized as one component in the traditional “Mocca Java” blend, which pairs coffee from Yemen and Java. Some estates age a portion of their coffee for up to three years. As they age, the beans turn from green to light brown, and the flavor gains strength while losing acidity. These aged coffees are called Old Government, Old Brown or Old Java.
Bali
The highland plateau of Kintamani, between the volcanoes of Batukaru and Agung, is the main coffee growing area. Many coffee farmers on Bali are members of a traditional farming system called Subak Abian, which is based on the Hindu philosophy of "Tri Hita Karana”. According to this philosophy, the three causes of happiness are good relations with God, other people and the environment. The Subak Abian system is ideally suited to the production of fair trade and organic coffee production.
Stakeholders in Bali, including the Subak Abian, have created Indonesia's first Geographic Indication (G.I.). Once it is recognized by the government, this G.I. will protect Kinatamani coffee from blending or mis-labeling.
Generally, Balinese coffee is carefully processed under tight control, using the wet method. This results in a sweet, soft coffee with good consistency. Typical flavors include lemon and other citrus notes.
Flores
Flores (or Flower) Island is 360 miles long, and is located 200 miles to the east of Bali. The terrain of Flores is rugged, with numerous active and inactive volcanoes. Ash from these volcanoes has created especially fertile Andosols, ideal for organic coffee production. Arabica coffee is grown at 1,200 to 1,800 meters on hillsides and plateaus. Most of the production is grown under shade trees and wet processed at farm level. Coffee from Flores is known for sweet chocolate, floral and woody notes.
Papua
New Guinea is the second largest island in the world. The western half of New Guinea is part of Indonesia. The Indonesian half of the island was formerly called “Irian Jaya”. Today, it is known as Papua, and it is divided into two provinces – Papua and West Papua.
There are two main coffee growing areas in Papua. The first is the Baliem Valley, in the central highlands of the Jayawijaya region, surrounding the town of Wamena. The second is the Kamu Valley in the Nabire Region, at the eastern edge of the central highlands, surrounding the town of Moanemani. Both areas lie at altitudes between 1,400 and 2000 meters, creating ideal conditions for Arabica production.
Together, these areas currently produce about 230 tons of coffee per year. This is set to rise, as new companies are setting up buying and processing operations. These companies are assisting farmers to obtain organic and fair trade certification, which will significantly improve incomes. The area is extremely remote, with most coffee growing areas inaccessible by road and nearly untouched by the modern world.
All coffee is shade grown, under Kaliandara, Erytrhina and Abizia trees. Farmers in Papua use a wet hulled process. Chemical fertilizer pesticide and herbicide are unknown in this origin, which makes this coffee both rare and valuable.
Harvesting and processing
All Arabica coffee in Indonesia is picked by hand, whether it is grown by small-holders or on medium-sized estates. After harvest, the coffee is processed in a variety of ways, each imparting its own flavors and aromas to the final product.
A small number of farmers in Sulawesi, Flores and Bali use the most traditional method of all, dry processing. The coffee cherries are dried in the sun, and then dehulled in a dry state.
Most farmers on Sulawesi, Sumatra, Flores, and Papua use a unique process, called “Giling Basah” (or Wet Hulling). In this technique, farmers remove the outer skin from the cherries mechanically, using rustic pulping machines, called “luwak”. The coffee beans, still coated with mucilage, are then stored for up to a day. Following this waiting period, the mucilage is washed off and the coffee is partially dried for sale.
Collectors and processors then hull the coffee in a semi-wet state, which gives the beans a distinctive bluish-green appearance. This process reduces acidity and increases body, resulting in the classic Indonesian cup profile.
Larger processing mills, estates and some farmer’s cooperatives on Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi and Bali produce “fully washed” coffee.
The most unusual form of coffee processing in Indonesia is “Kopi Luwak”. This coffee is processed by the Asian Palm Civet (Paradoxurus hermaphoditus). The animals eat ripe coffee cherries and their digestive process removes the outer layers of the fruit. The remaining coffee beans are collected and washed. Coffee experts believe that the unique flavor of Kopi Luwak comes, at least in part, from the extraction of natually occuring potassium salts from the beans during the digestive process. This results in a smooth, mild cup, with a sweet aftertaste. Kopi Luwak is very rare, and can retail for moer than $600 per kilogram.
Coffee research
The Indonesian Coffee and Cocoa Research Institute (ICCRI) is located in Jember, Java. Current activities of ICCRI in the coffee sector include:
Land mapping to identify new areas for coffee production
Research on coffee diseases and identification of resistant planting material
Farmer training on improved production and processing techniques
Supply of coffee seedlings for improved varieties
Supply of coffee processing and testing equipment
The Agribusiness Market and Support Activity (AMARTA) is conducting research on the effectiveness of the Brocap Trap technology in Toraja, Sidikilang and Gayo. This trap is designed to catch the Coffee Cherry Borer (CCB) insect, a major pest in coffee. It was developed by CIRAD, a French agricultural research institute. Brocap traps have been extensively adopted by coffee farmers in Central America
Coffee Associations
Indonesia’s coffee industry is represented by two associations. The Association of Indonesian Coffee Exporters (AICE), also known by its Indonesian acronym “AEKI”, is composed of Arabica and Robusta coffee exporters. AICE was founded in 1979 and it issues compulsory export licenses for coffee.
The Specialty Coffee Association of Indonesia (SCAI) formed in 2008. SCAI members focus exclusively on the production, export and marketing of Indoensia’s Arabica coffees. This includes farmers’ cooperatives with 8,050 members, exporters, roasters, importers and coffee retailers in the Arabic coffee industry.
1 History
2 Cultivation
3 Sumatra, Mandheling, Lintong and Gayo
4 Sulawesi, Toraja, Kalosi, Mamasa and Gowa
5 Java
6 Bali
7 Flores
8 Papua
9 Harvesting and processing
10 Coffee research
11 Coffee Associations
12 See also
13 Notes
14 External links
15 Further reading
History
The Dutch governor in Malabar (India) sent a Yemeni or Arabica coffee (Coffea arabica) seedling to the Dutch governor of Batavia (now Jakarta) in 1696. The first seedlings failed due to flooding in Batavia. A second shipments of seedlings was sent in 1699. The plants grew, and in 1711 the first exports were sent from Java to Europe by the Dutch East India Company, known by its Dutch initials VOC (Verininging Oogst-Indies Company which was established in 1602. Within 10 years, exports rose to 60 tons per year. Indonesia was the first place, outside of Arabia and Ethiopia, where coffee was widely cultivated. VOC monopolized coffee trading in 1725 to 1780.
The coffee was shipped to Europe from the port of Batavia (now Jakarta). There has been a port at the mouth of Ciliwung River since 397 AD, when King Purnawarman established the city he called Sunda Kelapa. Today, in the Kota area of Jakarta, one can find echoes of the sea-going legacy that built the city. Sail driven ships still load cargo in the old port. The Bahari museum occupies a former warehouse of the VOC, which was used to store spices and coffee. Menara Syahbandar (or Lookout Tower) was built in 1839 to replace the flag pole that stood at the head of wharves, where the VOC ships docked to load their cargos.[2]
In the 1700s, coffee shipped from Batavia sold for 3 Guilders per kilogram in Amsterdam. Since annual incomes in Holland in the 1700s were between 200 to 400 Guilders, this was equivalent of several hundred dollars per kilogram today. By the end of the 18th century, the price had dropped to 0.6 Guilders per kilogram and coffee drinking spread from the elite to the general population.[3]
The coffee trade was very profitable for the VOC, but less so for the Indonesian farmers who were forced to grow it by the colonial government. In theory, production of export crops was meant to provide cash for Javanese villagers to pay their taxes. This was in Dutch known as the Cultuurstelsel (Cultivation system), and it covered spices and a wide range of other tropical cash crops. Cultuur stelsel was iniated on coffee at Preanger region of West Java. In practice however, the prices set for the cash crops by the government were too low and they diverted labor from rice production, causing great hardship for farmers.
By mid of 1970’s the Ducth East Indies expanded Arabica coffee growing areas in Sumatra, Bali, Sulawesi and Timor. In Sulawesi the coffee was first planted in 1750. In North Sumatra highlands coffee was first grown near Lake Toba in 1888, followed in Gayo highland (Aceh) near Lake Laut Tawar in 1924.
In 1860, a Dutch colonial official, Eduard Douwes Dekker, wrote a book called “Max Havelaar and the Coffee Auctions of the Dutch Trading Company”, which exposed the oppression of villagers by corrupt and greedy officials. This book helped to change Dutch public opinion about the “Cultivation System” and colonialism in general. More recently, the name Max Havelaar was adopted by one of the first fair trade organizations.[3]
In the late eighteen hundreds, Dutch colonialists established large coffee plantations on the Ijen Plateau in eastern Java. In the 1920’s smallholders throughout Indonesia began to grow coffee as a cash crop. However, disaster struck in the 1876, when the coffee rust disease swept through Indonesia, wiping out most of Typica cultivar. Robusta coffee (C. canephor var. robusta) was introduced to East Java in 1900 as a substitute, especially at lower altitudes, where the rust was particularly devastating.
The plantations on Java were nationalized at independence and revitalized with new varieties of Coffea arabica in the 1950s. These varieties were also adopted by smallholders through the government and various development programs.
Cultivation
Today, more than 90% of Indonesia’s coffee is grown by smallholders on farms averaging one hectare or less. Much of the production is organic and 19 farmers’ cooperatives and exporters are internationally certified to market organic coffee. There are more than 20 varieties of Coffea arabica being grown commercially in Indonesia. They fall into six main categories:
Typica – this is the original cultivar introduced by the Dutch. Much of the Typica was lost in the late 1880s, when Coffee Leaf Rust swept through Indonesia. However, both the Bergandal and Sidikalang varieties of Typica can still be found in Sumatra, especially at higher altitudes.
Hibrido de Timor (HDT) – This variety, which is also called “Tim Tim”, is a natural cross between Arabica and Robusta. It was first collected in East Timor in 1978 and planted in Aceh in 1979.
Linie S – This is a group of varieties was originally developed in India, from the Bourbon cultivar. The most common are S-288 and S-795, which are found in Lintong, Aceh, Flores and other areas.
Ethiopian lines - These include Rambung and Abyssinia, which were brought to Java in 1928. Since then, they have been brought to Aceh as well. Another group of Ethiopian varieties found in Sumatra are called “USDA”, after an American project that brought them to Indonesia in the 1950s.
Caturra cultivars: Caturra is a mutation of Bourbon coffee, which originated in Brazil.
Catimor lines – This cross between Arabica and Robusta has a reputation for poor flavor. However, there are numerous types of Catimor, including one that farmers have named “Ateng-Jaluk”. On-going research in Aceh has revealed locally adapted Catimor varieties with excellent cup characteristics.
Sumatra, Mandheling, Lintong and Gayo
Coffee from this western-most island in Indonesia is intriguing and complex, due to the large number of small-holder producers and the unique “Giling Basah” (wet hulling) processing technique they use. At the green bean stage, coffee from this area has a distinctive bluish color, which is attributed to processing method and lack of iron in the soil.
Coffees from Sumatra are known for smooth, sweet body that is balanced and intense. Depending on the region, or blend of regions, the flavors of the land and processing can be very pronounced. Notes of cocoa, tobacco, smoke, earth and cedar wood can show well in the cup. Occasionally, Sumatran coffees can show greater acidity, which balances the body. This acidity takes on tropical fruit notes and sometimes an impression of grapefruit or lime.
Mandheling is a trade name, used for Arabica coffee from northern Sumatra. It was derived from the name of the Mandailing people, who produce coffee in the Tapanuli region of Sumatra. Mandheling coffee comes from Northern Sumatra, as well as Aceh. Lintong
Lintong coffee is grown in the District of Lintongnihuta, to the south-west of Lake Toba. This large lake is one of the deepest in the world, at 505 meters. The coffee production area is a high plateau, known for its diversity of tree fern species. This area produces 15,000 to 18,000 tons of Arabica per year. A neighboring region, called Sidikilang, also produces Arabica coffee.
Gayo Mountain coffee is grown on the hillsides surrounding the town of Takegon and Lake Tawar, at the northern tip of Sumatra, in the region of Aceh. The altitude in the production area averages between 1,110 and 1,300 meters. The coffee is grown by small-holders, under shade trees.
Coffee from this region is generally processed at farm-level, using traditional wet methods. Due to the Giling Basha processing, Gayo Mountain coffee is described as higher toned and lighter bodied than Lintong and Mandheling coffees from further east in Sumatra.
Sulawesi, Toraja, Kalosi, Mamasa and Gowa
The Indonesian island of Sulawesi, formerly called the Celebes, lies to the north of Flores. The primary region for high altitude Arabica production is a mountainous area called Tana Toraja, at the central highlands of South Sulawesi. To the south of Toraja is the region of Enrekang. The capital of this region is Kalosi, which is a well known brand of specialty coffee. The regions of Mamasa (to the west of Toraja) and Gowa (to the south of Kalosi), also produce Arabica, although they are less well known.
Unlike many of Indonesia’s islands, Sulawesi is geologically ancient, dating back more than 100 million years. This long history has resulted in soils with a high iron content – thought to affect coffee flavor.
Sulawesi coffees are clean and sound in the cup. They generally display nutty or warm spice notes, like cinnamon or cardamom. Hints of black pepper are sometimes found. Their sweetness, as with most Indonesian coffees, is closely related to the body of the coffee. The aftertaste coats the palate on the finish and is smooth and soft.
Most of Sulawesi’s coffee is grown by small-holders, with about 5% coming from seven larger estates. The people of Tana Toraja build distinctively shaped houses and maintain ancient and complex rituals related to death and the afterlife. This respect for tradition is also found in way that small-holders process their coffee. Sulawesi farmers use a unique process called “Giling Basah” (wet hulling).
Java
Java’s Arabica coffee production is centered on the Ijen Plateau, at the eastern end of Java, at an altitude of more than 1,400 meters. The coffee is primarily grown on large estates that were built by the Dutch in the 18th century. The five largest estates are Blawan (also spelled Belawan or Blauan), Jampit (or Djampit), Pancoer (or Pancur), Kayumas and Tugosari, and they cover more than 4,000 hectares.
These estates transport ripe cherries quickly to their mills after harvest. The pulp is then fermented and washed off, using the wet process, with rigorous quality control. This results in coffee with good, heavy body and a sweet overall impression. They are sometimes rustic in their flavor profiles, but display a lasting finish. At their best, they are smooth and supple and sometimes have a subtle herbaceous note in the aftertaste.
This coffee is prized as one component in the traditional “Mocca Java” blend, which pairs coffee from Yemen and Java. Some estates age a portion of their coffee for up to three years. As they age, the beans turn from green to light brown, and the flavor gains strength while losing acidity. These aged coffees are called Old Government, Old Brown or Old Java.
Bali
The highland plateau of Kintamani, between the volcanoes of Batukaru and Agung, is the main coffee growing area. Many coffee farmers on Bali are members of a traditional farming system called Subak Abian, which is based on the Hindu philosophy of "Tri Hita Karana”. According to this philosophy, the three causes of happiness are good relations with God, other people and the environment. The Subak Abian system is ideally suited to the production of fair trade and organic coffee production.
Stakeholders in Bali, including the Subak Abian, have created Indonesia's first Geographic Indication (G.I.). Once it is recognized by the government, this G.I. will protect Kinatamani coffee from blending or mis-labeling.
Generally, Balinese coffee is carefully processed under tight control, using the wet method. This results in a sweet, soft coffee with good consistency. Typical flavors include lemon and other citrus notes.
Flores
Flores (or Flower) Island is 360 miles long, and is located 200 miles to the east of Bali. The terrain of Flores is rugged, with numerous active and inactive volcanoes. Ash from these volcanoes has created especially fertile Andosols, ideal for organic coffee production. Arabica coffee is grown at 1,200 to 1,800 meters on hillsides and plateaus. Most of the production is grown under shade trees and wet processed at farm level. Coffee from Flores is known for sweet chocolate, floral and woody notes.
Papua
New Guinea is the second largest island in the world. The western half of New Guinea is part of Indonesia. The Indonesian half of the island was formerly called “Irian Jaya”. Today, it is known as Papua, and it is divided into two provinces – Papua and West Papua.
There are two main coffee growing areas in Papua. The first is the Baliem Valley, in the central highlands of the Jayawijaya region, surrounding the town of Wamena. The second is the Kamu Valley in the Nabire Region, at the eastern edge of the central highlands, surrounding the town of Moanemani. Both areas lie at altitudes between 1,400 and 2000 meters, creating ideal conditions for Arabica production.
Together, these areas currently produce about 230 tons of coffee per year. This is set to rise, as new companies are setting up buying and processing operations. These companies are assisting farmers to obtain organic and fair trade certification, which will significantly improve incomes. The area is extremely remote, with most coffee growing areas inaccessible by road and nearly untouched by the modern world.
All coffee is shade grown, under Kaliandara, Erytrhina and Abizia trees. Farmers in Papua use a wet hulled process. Chemical fertilizer pesticide and herbicide are unknown in this origin, which makes this coffee both rare and valuable.
Harvesting and processing
All Arabica coffee in Indonesia is picked by hand, whether it is grown by small-holders or on medium-sized estates. After harvest, the coffee is processed in a variety of ways, each imparting its own flavors and aromas to the final product.
A small number of farmers in Sulawesi, Flores and Bali use the most traditional method of all, dry processing. The coffee cherries are dried in the sun, and then dehulled in a dry state.
Most farmers on Sulawesi, Sumatra, Flores, and Papua use a unique process, called “Giling Basah” (or Wet Hulling). In this technique, farmers remove the outer skin from the cherries mechanically, using rustic pulping machines, called “luwak”. The coffee beans, still coated with mucilage, are then stored for up to a day. Following this waiting period, the mucilage is washed off and the coffee is partially dried for sale.
Collectors and processors then hull the coffee in a semi-wet state, which gives the beans a distinctive bluish-green appearance. This process reduces acidity and increases body, resulting in the classic Indonesian cup profile.
Larger processing mills, estates and some farmer’s cooperatives on Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi and Bali produce “fully washed” coffee.
The most unusual form of coffee processing in Indonesia is “Kopi Luwak”. This coffee is processed by the Asian Palm Civet (Paradoxurus hermaphoditus). The animals eat ripe coffee cherries and their digestive process removes the outer layers of the fruit. The remaining coffee beans are collected and washed. Coffee experts believe that the unique flavor of Kopi Luwak comes, at least in part, from the extraction of natually occuring potassium salts from the beans during the digestive process. This results in a smooth, mild cup, with a sweet aftertaste. Kopi Luwak is very rare, and can retail for moer than $600 per kilogram.
Coffee research
The Indonesian Coffee and Cocoa Research Institute (ICCRI) is located in Jember, Java. Current activities of ICCRI in the coffee sector include:
Land mapping to identify new areas for coffee production
Research on coffee diseases and identification of resistant planting material
Farmer training on improved production and processing techniques
Supply of coffee seedlings for improved varieties
Supply of coffee processing and testing equipment
The Agribusiness Market and Support Activity (AMARTA) is conducting research on the effectiveness of the Brocap Trap technology in Toraja, Sidikilang and Gayo. This trap is designed to catch the Coffee Cherry Borer (CCB) insect, a major pest in coffee. It was developed by CIRAD, a French agricultural research institute. Brocap traps have been extensively adopted by coffee farmers in Central America
Coffee Associations
Indonesia’s coffee industry is represented by two associations. The Association of Indonesian Coffee Exporters (AICE), also known by its Indonesian acronym “AEKI”, is composed of Arabica and Robusta coffee exporters. AICE was founded in 1979 and it issues compulsory export licenses for coffee.
The Specialty Coffee Association of Indonesia (SCAI) formed in 2008. SCAI members focus exclusively on the production, export and marketing of Indoensia’s Arabica coffees. This includes farmers’ cooperatives with 8,050 members, exporters, roasters, importers and coffee retailers in the Arabic coffee industry.
Bali - Coffee Plantations
From: http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art24831.asp
Bali - Coffee Plantations
Guest Author - Taisha Turner
The island of Bali, Indonesia has numerous coffee plantations. The Dutch introduced the coffee bean to the island and exported it worldwide. Long after Bali gained independence from the Netherlands, coffee plantations are still major money makers. They produce coffee for export and double as tourist attractions.
The romantic tropical history lures visitors across the seas. People want to see the Bali plantations carved from the steamy jungles. They want to view sunsets while sitting on the veranda sipping a tall cool drink under a gently swaying fan. They want to smell the fragrant ripe coffee berries. They want to hear insects chirp off in the distance. These sights and sounds are what Bali represents to many people around the world.
There are two ways to experience this Bali. One is vacation on a coffee plantation. The other is to take a day tour.
Villas and suites are available for rent. They are delightful way to enjoy the old colonial plantation life. You can stroll on the grounds while soaking up the atmosphere. Luxury and service are part of this delightful paradise. Imagine waking and drinking coffee grown on the grounds.
Coffee plantation tours are available to the visitor. There are several tour operators from whom to choose. The tours range from a couple of hours to a full day with meals included. You can hike through the humid jungle to reach the plantation. Or, secondly ride an air-conditioned bus complete with bottled water. There are provisions available for the disabled.
The coffee plantations’ tours are fascinating. The main consideration is the size of the plantation. On a small plantation the visitor is likely to see the trees harvested by hand. This experience is great for the romantic craving for the past. On the larger plantations the ripe red berries tend to be mechanically harvested.
Robusta and Arabica are the species grown on the island. Robusta coffee is grown on the high terraced mountainsides. Arabica is grown at lower altitudes. The mild temperatures and frequent rain showers are ideal for successful harvests.
The coffee of Bali, Indonesia is world known. The island Java lends its name to a cup of “java.” Don’t miss a visit! You will remember the experience with every cup of coffee you drink in the future.
Coffee in Indonesia
From : http://www.expat.or.id/info/coffeeinindonesia.html
Among the numerous luxuries of the table...coffee may be considered as one of the most valuable. It excites cheerfulness without intoxication; and the pleasing flow of spirits which it occasions...is never followed by sadness, languor or debility.
-Benjamin Franklin
The statement by Benjamin Franklin has perhaps become more meaningful with time. Little did he know that 200 years later, people would not only continue to enjoy coffee but that coffee would become a trendy beverage marketed and enjoyed in all parts of the world.
Because of its popularity, coffee has become one of the five highest traded commodities in the world. Most of the countries that produce coffee are located close to the equator. Because of its geographical location, Indonesia’s climate is highly suited to the growing and production of coffee. Currently Indonesia is the 3rd largest producer of coffee in the world.
Brief History of Coffee in Indonesia
Coffee was not a native plant to the archipelago. In the 17th century, when Indonesia was still under Dutch occupation, the VOC brought Arabica coffee plants to Indonesia. They were interested in growing the plants and sought to break the worldwide Arab monopoly on the coffee trade.
The Dutch Colonial Government initially planted coffee around Batavia (Jakarta), and as far south as Sukabumi and Bogor. Coffee plantations were later established in East Java, Central Java, West Java, and in parts of Sumatra and Sulawesi. Large areas of forested land were cleared and cultivated specifically for the development of these plantations. The growth of coffee plantations was responsible for the development of a lot of infrastructure in Central Java during the turn of the 19th century. Roads and railways were needed to transport the coffee beans from the island interior to the ports where the coffee was loaded on ships and exported.
Prior to World War Two, Central Java, in particular, had a very strong rail transportation system that brought coffee, sugar, pepper, tea and tobacco out of the province to the port city of Semarang. East Indonesia, East Timor, and Flores were also producing coffee during this period. These islands, however, were still under Portuguese rule. The Portuguese had also imported Arabica coffee plants, but they were from a different root stock that what the Dutch had imported.
Near the turn of the 19th century a huge portion of the coffee plants in Indonesia, as well as Sri Lanka and Malaysia, contracted coffee rust. Coffee rust is a fungus that creates the growth of a fine yellow-orange powder like substance that starts on the underside of the leaves of the plants. This fungus spread very quickly and wiped out entire plantations, devastating the colonial Indonesian coffee industry. The east side of the islands was also affected, but not to the extent that Java was hit because of the different root stock they had planted. Some plantation owners did not replant coffee plants but opted for tea or rubber trees instead which they felt were less prone to disease. Many of these plantations still remain in operation today.
The Dutch responded to the coffee rust by importing and planting Liberica coffee. This variety had a short-lived popularity and was also affected by disease. The Liberica cherry can still be found throughout Java, but is seldom used as a commercial crop in Indonesia. The Dutch colonial government then opted for the more resistant Robusta variety to replant the affected plantations. Robusta still makes up around 90% of the coffee crop in Indonesia today.
World War II and the struggle for independence played a big part in subsequent changes in the Indonesian coffee market. today. Plantations were taken over briefly by the occupying Japanese. After independence, the plantations throughout Indonesia either came under the control of the new government or were abandoned. Many colonial plantation owners fled the country to avoid being arrested. Today close to 92% of coffee production is in the hands of small farmers or cooperatives.
Coffee Production in Java, Sumatra and Sulawesi
There are three main coffee growing areas in Indonesia. Java is the one of the largest islands in the archipelago and also the largest producer of coffee. Java is renowned for its gourmet Arabica coffee. Arabica coffee is most suited to altitudes over 1500m. It grows well in temperatures of 16-20 degrees Celsius. Arabica plants tend to be more prone to disease, so farmers must pay close attention to the plants while they are growing. Java is also known as producing one of the finest aged coffees in the world in Old Java. Javanese coffee beans can be stored in warehouses for two to three years. This increases the strong full bodied taste that Arabica is known for.
Another major coffee producing island in Indonesia is Sulawesi, which was once known as Celebes. Coffee grown in Sulawesi is mostly processed using the dry method. . The most famous coffee growing region in Sulawesi is Toraja, where the coffee grows in the mountainous area near the center of the island 1500 meters above sea level. Coffee in the region is grown using traditional practices of coffee cultivation, mostly on privately owned smallholder plantations. Picking and sorting of the coffee cherries is done by hand making the coffee of very high quality as only the best cherries are picked. This type of growing and harvesting is utilized due to the very mountainous terrain and the haphazard planting of the coffee trees, resulting in a yield of only 300 kilo per hectare of coffee. Toraja Arabica has a very distinguished personality in terms of its full bodied taste paired with caramelized aroma, and a crisp and clean aftertaste. The earth and the other vegetation of the region are partly responsible for giving the coffee its flavor. The low annual yield of Toraja’s Arabica makes this coffee highly sought after by coffee connoisseurs worldwide. Toraja Sulawesi coffee is particularly popular in Japan. There is a very limited supply of Toraja coffee in the world due to the cultivation practices and conditions. The highest grades of Toraja coffee are normally reserved for export.
Sumatra is another major coffee producing area of Indonesia. Sumatra produces two of the world’s most famous and high quality coffees - Mandheling and Ankola (seldom-used market name for Arabica coffee). Sumatra Mandheling coffee is produced outside the city of Padang, in the west coast coffee district. This coffee is characterized by a low-key acidity and a heavy, almost syrupy, body with a concentrated and complex flavor. Grown in west-central Sumatra, both of these coffees are dry-processed and are renowned for their unique and rich flavor. Indonesia’s most highly sought after specialty coffees are the Toraja and Mandehling.
Coffee Plants
Coffea Arabica, known as Arabica coffee, accounts for 75-80% of the world's production. Coffea canephora, known as Robusta coffee, is more robust than the Arabica plants, but produces an inferior tasting beverage with higher caffeine content. The coffee plant can grow to heights of 10 meters, if not pruned, but normally the trees are pruned to a reasonable height for easy harvesting. Coffee trees flower twice a year. In Sumatra the season runs from November to January and in Java from late July through to September. The flowers grow in bunches that hang from the tree. Only about 25% of the flowers will grow into coffee cherries. The Arabica species is self-pollinating, whereas the Robusta species depends on cross pollination. After pollination the fruit remains almost dormant for 6-8 weeks. After this time the cherry starts it rapid growth stage where it goes from the size of a pin head to the final cherry size within a 15-week period.
Coffee Processing
Once the cherries have reached a level of ripeness where the outer skin turns red, the picking begins. Bigger estates often do strip picks using machinery whereas the smaller plantations will hand pick the coffee cherries. Hand picking is of course the preferred method as only the choice cherries picked and the pest infected beans and debris can all be sorted out. Beans at this newly picked stage can only last two days before they need to be further processed. This is the processing method most commonly used for Toraja coffee.
The next stage of processing produces “green coffee”. There are two methods that are used to do this: the dry method or the wet processing system. The dry method is predominately used in Sumatra and by small hold farmers in Java, Bali, and Flores. This method involves drying the beans outside under the sun. The beans are laid out either on a concrete pad, or on sacking laid out on the side of the road. Ideally the stacks of bean should not be more than 5 cm high and the beans need to be turned every two hours to ensure correct humidity level is achieved before hulling. It is vital to avoid being rained upon.
The drying process can take several weeks. Over this time the beans are raked and turned as often as needed to ensure a universal drying effect is achieved. Once the outer area of the bean begins to fall off, the coffee is ready to have the pulp removed. It is normally dried until the moisture content of the bean is approximately 11%. The mulching is done by machinery- although some of these mulching machines are still hand driven! The final product is a green bean, about 1/3 the size of the original cherry. The dry method produces coffee that is heavy in body, sweet, smooth, and complex.
The second method of drying coffee is the wet processing system. Wet processing means the bean can begin the final preparation stage immediately after being picked. Instead of drying under the sun the cherries are processed through a water system. This process results in a coffee that is cleaner, brighter, and fruitier. The pulp of the coffee cherries is removed to release the two coffee beans inside. The beans then sit in water for 24-48 hours to ferment. This is the heart of wet processing--when the fine, acidy flavor of great coffee is produced.
The fermenting process softens the outer skin which makes it easy to remove. The system works well although there are often times when the sugar in the beans can ferment, causing the flavor of the beans to be affected. Most large coffee estates in Java use this system as it speeds up processing and generally makes selection of the final green bean much easier. The quality of green bean from wet processing is generally higher.
After fermentation, the remaining pulp is washed off and the beans spread out to dry. The coffee can also be dried in a mechanical dryer, powered by a wood, gas or solar power. As in the dry method the beans need to be dried until the moisture level reaches a[proximately 11%. The coffee is then referred to as parchment coffee and is ready to be warehoused in sisal or jute bags until readied for hulling.
Machines are used to hull the parchment layer (endocarp) from the wet processed coffee. Hulling dry processed coffee refers to removing the entire dried husk -- the exocarp, mesocarp and endocarp -- of the dried cherries. Green coffee can last for years if it is stored in the correct conditions. It is vital that it is not exposed to high humidity as this will cause molding. It can also absorb flavor from other things stored around it so to avoid tainting the taste care must be taken in choosing the warehouse location.
Roasting Coffee
Roasting transforms green coffee into the aromatic brown beans that we purchase, either whole or already ground, in our favorite stores. Most roasting machines maintain a temperature of about 550 degrees Fahrenheit. The beans are kept moving throughout the entire process to keep them from burning and when they reach an internal temperature of about 400 degrees, they begin to turn brown and the caffeol, or oil, locked inside the beans begins to emerge. Throughout the roasting process the beans must be kept moving so they don't burn or roast unevenly, and cooled, or quenched, when the right moment has come to stop the roasting. Coffee that is not roasted long enough or hot enough to bring out the oil, has a pasty, nutty, or bread-like flavor. Coffee roasted too long or at too high a temperature is thin-bodied, burned, and industrial-flavored. Coffee roasted too long at too low a temperature has a baked flavor. Roasting must be stopped at precisely the right moment to obtain the flavor and roast desired. The beans are quickly dumped into a metal box, where pyrolysis continues until the beans are quenched with either cold air or a light spray of cold water. Most specialty roasters air-quench their coffee.
Some coffee producers do not have their own roasting machines and rely on others to roast their beans for them. During the roasting process the water that is contained in the bean evaporates making for a lighter yield than what was originally put in the roaster. This makes it impossible to rely on weight to ensure that the beans that went into the roaster are in fact the beans that come out. For this reason many producers in Indonesia will supervise the entire roasting process of their beans as some ethically challenged roasters have been known to switch the quality of bean that they are roasting with an inferior quality or even take out some of the beans and replace the beans with corn. After corn has been roasted with coffee, it is almost imposable to detect.
Grinding and Brewing Coffee
To truly get the best taste from coffee it is best to grind the beans just before brewing it. It is best to use 10 g (2 tablespoons) of ground coffee for each 180 ml (6 fluid oz) of water. Keep these proportions consistent, regardless of the quantity you make. You can adjust proportions to taste, but remember that skimping (i.e., grinding finer and using less coffee) makes for a thin, bitter brew. The taste of ground coffee will start to deteriorate almost an hour after grinding so it is best to grind only what is to be used immediately. Grind the coffee as fine as you can make it without losing any through the holes in the filter of the coffee maker. Never grind it to a powder. Completely pulverizing it destroys the essential oil, which becomes vaporized by the heat and friction of the grinding process. Too fine a grind will cause over extraction and bitterness. Too coarse a grind will cause watery coffee. the appropriate grind should allow the coffee to finish dripping in several minutes.
Brew with hot water, as opposed to lukewarm or boiling water. Boiling damages coffee flavor because it vaporizes much of the coffee essence while it continues to extract other bitter chemicals. Don't percolate or reheat coffee; it has the same effect as boiling, only less so. Don't hold coffee for very long on the heat for the same reason. Coffee can be kept warm over a burner for only about 20 minutes before the flavor starts to become unpleasant. A temperature of 200 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal, which means bringing the water to a boil and then waiting a couple of minutes before brewing. It is better to keep your coffee in an air pot or vacuum server to keep it hot rather than keeping it on heat for long periods of time.
Coffee Press:
The coffee press is a modern variation on the traditional open pot style. Hot water is poured over coarse ground coffee and allowed to steep for approximate four minutes. A mesh filter is then pushed down to the bottom of the pot which separates the coffee from the grounds. The brew is normally a better quality than drip coffee since paper filters remove subtle flavors and add a taste all their own.
Drip Coffee Makers:
This type of coffee maker is among the most popular and convenient. It is best to use a permanent metal mess or synthetic filter for these units as it will improve the taste of the coffee.
Espresso Brewing method:
This method of coffee making uses pressure rather and gravity to brew. This type of brewing is becoming increasingly popular not only in commercial but home use. The coffee is inserted in a small container and water condensed from steam is passed through it under high mechanical pressure to brew the coffee. Most machines will have other steam taps for frothing milk for cappuccino. In Italian, the word espresso means "individualized". These brewers are a bit more complicated to use, but tend to make a much better cup of coffee. This type of brewing is normally used by barista to make cappuccino and espresso in up scale coffee shops.
Other brewing methods include traditional Italian stove-top coffee makers, vacuum brewers, and cold water extractors.
Enjoying Coffee in Indonesia
As expatriates, residing in one of the major coffee producing countries in the world, you have a wealth of opportunities to taste new coffees, visit the actual plantations where they are grown, and learn more about the beverage you enjoy so much!
Jakarta and other major cities have numerous coffee shops and cafés where brews from different countries can be enjoyed in a quiet and comfortable atmosphere. Indonesian consumers have embraced the worldwide coffee craze with gusto and you’ll find Starbucks (US), Coffee Bean (Singapore), Segafredo (Italy) and others in malls in major cities. It is ironic that a huge amount of Indonesian coffee is shipped overseas, processed, and then shipped back to Indonesia to be sold under these familiar international labels at worldwide prices.
Some of the best coffee can be sampled at small “warung kopi" (roadside stall) where kopi tubruk is often served in a glass. A visit will certainly be a memorable experience, as traffic whizzes by, and the locals try to figure out what a foreigner is doing in a warung! Be forewarned, Indonesians drink their coffee with LOTS of sugar, and warung kopi is served with the grounds steeping in the bottom of your glass! Take that last sip with caution! You may be surprised once again if you ask for kopi susu (coffee with milk) as it may be prepared with canned sweetened condensed milk! Many people often joke that you have to strain the coffee grinds through your teeth when you drink this type of coffee, or refer to it as 'mud coffee'..
Grocery stores offer a wide variety of Indonesian coffees and specialty shops offer you the chance to taste locally roasted specialty coffees. Premier JJ Royal Toraja coffee is sold at the Jakarta Duty Free shops in the airport, Bali’s Putri Bintang Kencana Duty Free Shops, Bali Deli, and Ranch Market locations. With the recent restrictions concerning the amount of liquids allowed on the airplane, coffee has become a great gift. Especially with JJ Royal’s innovative packaging, where emphasis is put on maintaining the freshness of the coffee and its attractive design. Coffee tasting sessions can be set up with JJ Royal or Caswell’s Coffee and you’ll soon educate your palate and learn how to distinguish the differences between many types of coffee. This is a great activity for an office get together or a community group activity.
If you’re looking for a travel adventure, check with your travel agent to see if there are coffee plantations that you can visit during your travels around the archipelago. Even without a formal agri-tourism program, most plantation owners are more than happy to allow you to take pictures of harvest and various processing that you happen across. If your Indonesian is up to the task, you can talk with the agricultural workers and learn even more!
Whatever your interest, use your time in Indonesia to learn more about coffee !
Glossary:
Coffee: kopi
Black Coffee: kopi pahit
Coffee with milk: kopi susu
Coffee with sugar: Kopi manis or kopi dengan gula
Coffee plantation: Perkebunan kopi
Coffee steeped in a glass (with grounds): kopi tubruk
Among the numerous luxuries of the table...coffee may be considered as one of the most valuable. It excites cheerfulness without intoxication; and the pleasing flow of spirits which it occasions...is never followed by sadness, languor or debility.
-Benjamin Franklin
The statement by Benjamin Franklin has perhaps become more meaningful with time. Little did he know that 200 years later, people would not only continue to enjoy coffee but that coffee would become a trendy beverage marketed and enjoyed in all parts of the world.
Because of its popularity, coffee has become one of the five highest traded commodities in the world. Most of the countries that produce coffee are located close to the equator. Because of its geographical location, Indonesia’s climate is highly suited to the growing and production of coffee. Currently Indonesia is the 3rd largest producer of coffee in the world.
Brief History of Coffee in Indonesia
Coffee was not a native plant to the archipelago. In the 17th century, when Indonesia was still under Dutch occupation, the VOC brought Arabica coffee plants to Indonesia. They were interested in growing the plants and sought to break the worldwide Arab monopoly on the coffee trade.
The Dutch Colonial Government initially planted coffee around Batavia (Jakarta), and as far south as Sukabumi and Bogor. Coffee plantations were later established in East Java, Central Java, West Java, and in parts of Sumatra and Sulawesi. Large areas of forested land were cleared and cultivated specifically for the development of these plantations. The growth of coffee plantations was responsible for the development of a lot of infrastructure in Central Java during the turn of the 19th century. Roads and railways were needed to transport the coffee beans from the island interior to the ports where the coffee was loaded on ships and exported.
Prior to World War Two, Central Java, in particular, had a very strong rail transportation system that brought coffee, sugar, pepper, tea and tobacco out of the province to the port city of Semarang. East Indonesia, East Timor, and Flores were also producing coffee during this period. These islands, however, were still under Portuguese rule. The Portuguese had also imported Arabica coffee plants, but they were from a different root stock that what the Dutch had imported.
Near the turn of the 19th century a huge portion of the coffee plants in Indonesia, as well as Sri Lanka and Malaysia, contracted coffee rust. Coffee rust is a fungus that creates the growth of a fine yellow-orange powder like substance that starts on the underside of the leaves of the plants. This fungus spread very quickly and wiped out entire plantations, devastating the colonial Indonesian coffee industry. The east side of the islands was also affected, but not to the extent that Java was hit because of the different root stock they had planted. Some plantation owners did not replant coffee plants but opted for tea or rubber trees instead which they felt were less prone to disease. Many of these plantations still remain in operation today.
The Dutch responded to the coffee rust by importing and planting Liberica coffee. This variety had a short-lived popularity and was also affected by disease. The Liberica cherry can still be found throughout Java, but is seldom used as a commercial crop in Indonesia. The Dutch colonial government then opted for the more resistant Robusta variety to replant the affected plantations. Robusta still makes up around 90% of the coffee crop in Indonesia today.
World War II and the struggle for independence played a big part in subsequent changes in the Indonesian coffee market. today. Plantations were taken over briefly by the occupying Japanese. After independence, the plantations throughout Indonesia either came under the control of the new government or were abandoned. Many colonial plantation owners fled the country to avoid being arrested. Today close to 92% of coffee production is in the hands of small farmers or cooperatives.
Coffee Production in Java, Sumatra and Sulawesi
There are three main coffee growing areas in Indonesia. Java is the one of the largest islands in the archipelago and also the largest producer of coffee. Java is renowned for its gourmet Arabica coffee. Arabica coffee is most suited to altitudes over 1500m. It grows well in temperatures of 16-20 degrees Celsius. Arabica plants tend to be more prone to disease, so farmers must pay close attention to the plants while they are growing. Java is also known as producing one of the finest aged coffees in the world in Old Java. Javanese coffee beans can be stored in warehouses for two to three years. This increases the strong full bodied taste that Arabica is known for.
Another major coffee producing island in Indonesia is Sulawesi, which was once known as Celebes. Coffee grown in Sulawesi is mostly processed using the dry method. . The most famous coffee growing region in Sulawesi is Toraja, where the coffee grows in the mountainous area near the center of the island 1500 meters above sea level. Coffee in the region is grown using traditional practices of coffee cultivation, mostly on privately owned smallholder plantations. Picking and sorting of the coffee cherries is done by hand making the coffee of very high quality as only the best cherries are picked. This type of growing and harvesting is utilized due to the very mountainous terrain and the haphazard planting of the coffee trees, resulting in a yield of only 300 kilo per hectare of coffee. Toraja Arabica has a very distinguished personality in terms of its full bodied taste paired with caramelized aroma, and a crisp and clean aftertaste. The earth and the other vegetation of the region are partly responsible for giving the coffee its flavor. The low annual yield of Toraja’s Arabica makes this coffee highly sought after by coffee connoisseurs worldwide. Toraja Sulawesi coffee is particularly popular in Japan. There is a very limited supply of Toraja coffee in the world due to the cultivation practices and conditions. The highest grades of Toraja coffee are normally reserved for export.
Sumatra is another major coffee producing area of Indonesia. Sumatra produces two of the world’s most famous and high quality coffees - Mandheling and Ankola (seldom-used market name for Arabica coffee). Sumatra Mandheling coffee is produced outside the city of Padang, in the west coast coffee district. This coffee is characterized by a low-key acidity and a heavy, almost syrupy, body with a concentrated and complex flavor. Grown in west-central Sumatra, both of these coffees are dry-processed and are renowned for their unique and rich flavor. Indonesia’s most highly sought after specialty coffees are the Toraja and Mandehling.
Coffee Plants
Coffea Arabica, known as Arabica coffee, accounts for 75-80% of the world's production. Coffea canephora, known as Robusta coffee, is more robust than the Arabica plants, but produces an inferior tasting beverage with higher caffeine content. The coffee plant can grow to heights of 10 meters, if not pruned, but normally the trees are pruned to a reasonable height for easy harvesting. Coffee trees flower twice a year. In Sumatra the season runs from November to January and in Java from late July through to September. The flowers grow in bunches that hang from the tree. Only about 25% of the flowers will grow into coffee cherries. The Arabica species is self-pollinating, whereas the Robusta species depends on cross pollination. After pollination the fruit remains almost dormant for 6-8 weeks. After this time the cherry starts it rapid growth stage where it goes from the size of a pin head to the final cherry size within a 15-week period.
Coffee Processing
Once the cherries have reached a level of ripeness where the outer skin turns red, the picking begins. Bigger estates often do strip picks using machinery whereas the smaller plantations will hand pick the coffee cherries. Hand picking is of course the preferred method as only the choice cherries picked and the pest infected beans and debris can all be sorted out. Beans at this newly picked stage can only last two days before they need to be further processed. This is the processing method most commonly used for Toraja coffee.
The next stage of processing produces “green coffee”. There are two methods that are used to do this: the dry method or the wet processing system. The dry method is predominately used in Sumatra and by small hold farmers in Java, Bali, and Flores. This method involves drying the beans outside under the sun. The beans are laid out either on a concrete pad, or on sacking laid out on the side of the road. Ideally the stacks of bean should not be more than 5 cm high and the beans need to be turned every two hours to ensure correct humidity level is achieved before hulling. It is vital to avoid being rained upon.
The drying process can take several weeks. Over this time the beans are raked and turned as often as needed to ensure a universal drying effect is achieved. Once the outer area of the bean begins to fall off, the coffee is ready to have the pulp removed. It is normally dried until the moisture content of the bean is approximately 11%. The mulching is done by machinery- although some of these mulching machines are still hand driven! The final product is a green bean, about 1/3 the size of the original cherry. The dry method produces coffee that is heavy in body, sweet, smooth, and complex.
The second method of drying coffee is the wet processing system. Wet processing means the bean can begin the final preparation stage immediately after being picked. Instead of drying under the sun the cherries are processed through a water system. This process results in a coffee that is cleaner, brighter, and fruitier. The pulp of the coffee cherries is removed to release the two coffee beans inside. The beans then sit in water for 24-48 hours to ferment. This is the heart of wet processing--when the fine, acidy flavor of great coffee is produced.
The fermenting process softens the outer skin which makes it easy to remove. The system works well although there are often times when the sugar in the beans can ferment, causing the flavor of the beans to be affected. Most large coffee estates in Java use this system as it speeds up processing and generally makes selection of the final green bean much easier. The quality of green bean from wet processing is generally higher.
After fermentation, the remaining pulp is washed off and the beans spread out to dry. The coffee can also be dried in a mechanical dryer, powered by a wood, gas or solar power. As in the dry method the beans need to be dried until the moisture level reaches a[proximately 11%. The coffee is then referred to as parchment coffee and is ready to be warehoused in sisal or jute bags until readied for hulling.
Machines are used to hull the parchment layer (endocarp) from the wet processed coffee. Hulling dry processed coffee refers to removing the entire dried husk -- the exocarp, mesocarp and endocarp -- of the dried cherries. Green coffee can last for years if it is stored in the correct conditions. It is vital that it is not exposed to high humidity as this will cause molding. It can also absorb flavor from other things stored around it so to avoid tainting the taste care must be taken in choosing the warehouse location.
Roasting Coffee
Roasting transforms green coffee into the aromatic brown beans that we purchase, either whole or already ground, in our favorite stores. Most roasting machines maintain a temperature of about 550 degrees Fahrenheit. The beans are kept moving throughout the entire process to keep them from burning and when they reach an internal temperature of about 400 degrees, they begin to turn brown and the caffeol, or oil, locked inside the beans begins to emerge. Throughout the roasting process the beans must be kept moving so they don't burn or roast unevenly, and cooled, or quenched, when the right moment has come to stop the roasting. Coffee that is not roasted long enough or hot enough to bring out the oil, has a pasty, nutty, or bread-like flavor. Coffee roasted too long or at too high a temperature is thin-bodied, burned, and industrial-flavored. Coffee roasted too long at too low a temperature has a baked flavor. Roasting must be stopped at precisely the right moment to obtain the flavor and roast desired. The beans are quickly dumped into a metal box, where pyrolysis continues until the beans are quenched with either cold air or a light spray of cold water. Most specialty roasters air-quench their coffee.
Some coffee producers do not have their own roasting machines and rely on others to roast their beans for them. During the roasting process the water that is contained in the bean evaporates making for a lighter yield than what was originally put in the roaster. This makes it impossible to rely on weight to ensure that the beans that went into the roaster are in fact the beans that come out. For this reason many producers in Indonesia will supervise the entire roasting process of their beans as some ethically challenged roasters have been known to switch the quality of bean that they are roasting with an inferior quality or even take out some of the beans and replace the beans with corn. After corn has been roasted with coffee, it is almost imposable to detect.
Grinding and Brewing Coffee
To truly get the best taste from coffee it is best to grind the beans just before brewing it. It is best to use 10 g (2 tablespoons) of ground coffee for each 180 ml (6 fluid oz) of water. Keep these proportions consistent, regardless of the quantity you make. You can adjust proportions to taste, but remember that skimping (i.e., grinding finer and using less coffee) makes for a thin, bitter brew. The taste of ground coffee will start to deteriorate almost an hour after grinding so it is best to grind only what is to be used immediately. Grind the coffee as fine as you can make it without losing any through the holes in the filter of the coffee maker. Never grind it to a powder. Completely pulverizing it destroys the essential oil, which becomes vaporized by the heat and friction of the grinding process. Too fine a grind will cause over extraction and bitterness. Too coarse a grind will cause watery coffee. the appropriate grind should allow the coffee to finish dripping in several minutes.
Brew with hot water, as opposed to lukewarm or boiling water. Boiling damages coffee flavor because it vaporizes much of the coffee essence while it continues to extract other bitter chemicals. Don't percolate or reheat coffee; it has the same effect as boiling, only less so. Don't hold coffee for very long on the heat for the same reason. Coffee can be kept warm over a burner for only about 20 minutes before the flavor starts to become unpleasant. A temperature of 200 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal, which means bringing the water to a boil and then waiting a couple of minutes before brewing. It is better to keep your coffee in an air pot or vacuum server to keep it hot rather than keeping it on heat for long periods of time.
Coffee Press:
The coffee press is a modern variation on the traditional open pot style. Hot water is poured over coarse ground coffee and allowed to steep for approximate four minutes. A mesh filter is then pushed down to the bottom of the pot which separates the coffee from the grounds. The brew is normally a better quality than drip coffee since paper filters remove subtle flavors and add a taste all their own.
Drip Coffee Makers:
This type of coffee maker is among the most popular and convenient. It is best to use a permanent metal mess or synthetic filter for these units as it will improve the taste of the coffee.
Espresso Brewing method:
This method of coffee making uses pressure rather and gravity to brew. This type of brewing is becoming increasingly popular not only in commercial but home use. The coffee is inserted in a small container and water condensed from steam is passed through it under high mechanical pressure to brew the coffee. Most machines will have other steam taps for frothing milk for cappuccino. In Italian, the word espresso means "individualized". These brewers are a bit more complicated to use, but tend to make a much better cup of coffee. This type of brewing is normally used by barista to make cappuccino and espresso in up scale coffee shops.
Other brewing methods include traditional Italian stove-top coffee makers, vacuum brewers, and cold water extractors.
Enjoying Coffee in Indonesia
As expatriates, residing in one of the major coffee producing countries in the world, you have a wealth of opportunities to taste new coffees, visit the actual plantations where they are grown, and learn more about the beverage you enjoy so much!
Jakarta and other major cities have numerous coffee shops and cafés where brews from different countries can be enjoyed in a quiet and comfortable atmosphere. Indonesian consumers have embraced the worldwide coffee craze with gusto and you’ll find Starbucks (US), Coffee Bean (Singapore), Segafredo (Italy) and others in malls in major cities. It is ironic that a huge amount of Indonesian coffee is shipped overseas, processed, and then shipped back to Indonesia to be sold under these familiar international labels at worldwide prices.
Some of the best coffee can be sampled at small “warung kopi" (roadside stall) where kopi tubruk is often served in a glass. A visit will certainly be a memorable experience, as traffic whizzes by, and the locals try to figure out what a foreigner is doing in a warung! Be forewarned, Indonesians drink their coffee with LOTS of sugar, and warung kopi is served with the grounds steeping in the bottom of your glass! Take that last sip with caution! You may be surprised once again if you ask for kopi susu (coffee with milk) as it may be prepared with canned sweetened condensed milk! Many people often joke that you have to strain the coffee grinds through your teeth when you drink this type of coffee, or refer to it as 'mud coffee'..
Grocery stores offer a wide variety of Indonesian coffees and specialty shops offer you the chance to taste locally roasted specialty coffees. Premier JJ Royal Toraja coffee is sold at the Jakarta Duty Free shops in the airport, Bali’s Putri Bintang Kencana Duty Free Shops, Bali Deli, and Ranch Market locations. With the recent restrictions concerning the amount of liquids allowed on the airplane, coffee has become a great gift. Especially with JJ Royal’s innovative packaging, where emphasis is put on maintaining the freshness of the coffee and its attractive design. Coffee tasting sessions can be set up with JJ Royal or Caswell’s Coffee and you’ll soon educate your palate and learn how to distinguish the differences between many types of coffee. This is a great activity for an office get together or a community group activity.
If you’re looking for a travel adventure, check with your travel agent to see if there are coffee plantations that you can visit during your travels around the archipelago. Even without a formal agri-tourism program, most plantation owners are more than happy to allow you to take pictures of harvest and various processing that you happen across. If your Indonesian is up to the task, you can talk with the agricultural workers and learn even more!
Whatever your interest, use your time in Indonesia to learn more about coffee !
Glossary:
Coffee: kopi
Black Coffee: kopi pahit
Coffee with milk: kopi susu
Coffee with sugar: Kopi manis or kopi dengan gula
Coffee plantation: Perkebunan kopi
Coffee steeped in a glass (with grounds): kopi tubruk
Next hot commodity? Arabica coffee beans
Tuesday, September 5, 2006
Next hot commodity? Arabica coffee beans
By CLAUDIA CARPENTER AND NGUYEN DIEU TU UYEN
BLOOMBERG NEWS
New York, home of the $4 cup of coffee, may be where the commodity gets its next price jolt.
Prices for arabica coffee beans on the New York Board of Trade could climb more than 20 percent in the next 12 months and outperform some of this year's best commodities investments, including copper and silver.
Demand for the beans is coming from Procter & Gamble Co., whose Folgers brand is the best-selling U.S. coffee, and Kraft Foods Inc., the maker of Maxwell House. Coffee sellers are turning to the arabica beans traded mostly in New York after a cheaper coffee variety called robusta rallied to a seven-year high in London last month.
"Now that robusta is moving up, it's bringing other grades into play," said Raymond Keane, a coffee trader in Charleston, S.C., for Balzac Bros. & Co., which supplies the commodity for Procter & Gamble and Kraft.
Coffee in New York may reach $1.30 a pound by the middle of next year, said Michael Coleman, managing director at Singapore-based Aisling Analytics, who helps run the Merchant Commodity Fund with $370 million. Arabica futures are little changed at about $1.08 this year, while robusta on the Euronext.liffe exchange in London jumped 30 percent.
The forecast for New York coffee compares with Macquarie Bank Ltd.'s prediction for a decline in copper, which jumped 75 percent this year. Silver, up 46 percent so far, will gain only 17 percent in 2007, Zurich, Switzerland-based analyst Edward Ennis at Julius Baer Holding AG forecast in July.
The International Coffee Organization forecasts a 2 percent rise in global coffee consumption to 7 million tons, helped by record growth at Seattle-based Starbucks Corp., the world's largest coffee-shop owner. Brazil, the world's biggest coffee producer, is unlikely in 2007 to repeat its bumper crop of 2.49 million tons this year, according to Conab, the forecasting agency for the nation's Agriculture Ministry.
About two-thirds of the world's coffee comes from arabica beans, which are used by coffee shops such as Starbucks. The rest is robusta, used in instant coffee, espresso and low-cost blends. Robusta beans give an espresso its froth, or "crema," and have about twice as much caffeine as arabica.
Coffee futures in London have risen in the past year as production from Vietnam, the largest robusta grower, declined because of a drought. Prices reached $1,586 a metric ton Aug. 22, the highest since 1999, after water damaged inventories in Italy.
Arabica prices haven't kept pace because Brazil this year is harvesting its second-biggest crop ever. Chances are Brazil's 2007 crop will decline because trees usually rest after a big harvest.
Dry weather is also hurting Brazil's plantations, and the flowering that starts in October will be damaged if there is no rain soon, hurting next year's crop.
Coffee roasters such as Cincinnati-based Procter & Gamble change the mix of bean varieties they use depending on price and consumer tastes.
"To the extent the ratio between the two contracts is way out of line, there must become a price point where arabica will become more viable than robusta," said Sean Corrigan, chief investment strategist at Diapason Commodities Ltd., which manages $5 billion of commodity investments.
The price spread between New York and London coffee is the narrowest in two years, boosting the appeal for buyers looking to use more of the mild-tasting beans. The premium for the most-active arabica contract is 38 cents a pound, down from 92 cents in March 2005, data compiled by Bloomberg show.
Next hot commodity? Arabica coffee beans
By CLAUDIA CARPENTER AND NGUYEN DIEU TU UYEN
BLOOMBERG NEWS
New York, home of the $4 cup of coffee, may be where the commodity gets its next price jolt.
Prices for arabica coffee beans on the New York Board of Trade could climb more than 20 percent in the next 12 months and outperform some of this year's best commodities investments, including copper and silver.
Demand for the beans is coming from Procter & Gamble Co., whose Folgers brand is the best-selling U.S. coffee, and Kraft Foods Inc., the maker of Maxwell House. Coffee sellers are turning to the arabica beans traded mostly in New York after a cheaper coffee variety called robusta rallied to a seven-year high in London last month.
"Now that robusta is moving up, it's bringing other grades into play," said Raymond Keane, a coffee trader in Charleston, S.C., for Balzac Bros. & Co., which supplies the commodity for Procter & Gamble and Kraft.
Coffee in New York may reach $1.30 a pound by the middle of next year, said Michael Coleman, managing director at Singapore-based Aisling Analytics, who helps run the Merchant Commodity Fund with $370 million. Arabica futures are little changed at about $1.08 this year, while robusta on the Euronext.liffe exchange in London jumped 30 percent.
The forecast for New York coffee compares with Macquarie Bank Ltd.'s prediction for a decline in copper, which jumped 75 percent this year. Silver, up 46 percent so far, will gain only 17 percent in 2007, Zurich, Switzerland-based analyst Edward Ennis at Julius Baer Holding AG forecast in July.
The International Coffee Organization forecasts a 2 percent rise in global coffee consumption to 7 million tons, helped by record growth at Seattle-based Starbucks Corp., the world's largest coffee-shop owner. Brazil, the world's biggest coffee producer, is unlikely in 2007 to repeat its bumper crop of 2.49 million tons this year, according to Conab, the forecasting agency for the nation's Agriculture Ministry.
About two-thirds of the world's coffee comes from arabica beans, which are used by coffee shops such as Starbucks. The rest is robusta, used in instant coffee, espresso and low-cost blends. Robusta beans give an espresso its froth, or "crema," and have about twice as much caffeine as arabica.
Coffee futures in London have risen in the past year as production from Vietnam, the largest robusta grower, declined because of a drought. Prices reached $1,586 a metric ton Aug. 22, the highest since 1999, after water damaged inventories in Italy.
Arabica prices haven't kept pace because Brazil this year is harvesting its second-biggest crop ever. Chances are Brazil's 2007 crop will decline because trees usually rest after a big harvest.
Dry weather is also hurting Brazil's plantations, and the flowering that starts in October will be damaged if there is no rain soon, hurting next year's crop.
Coffee roasters such as Cincinnati-based Procter & Gamble change the mix of bean varieties they use depending on price and consumer tastes.
"To the extent the ratio between the two contracts is way out of line, there must become a price point where arabica will become more viable than robusta," said Sean Corrigan, chief investment strategist at Diapason Commodities Ltd., which manages $5 billion of commodity investments.
The price spread between New York and London coffee is the narrowest in two years, boosting the appeal for buyers looking to use more of the mild-tasting beans. The premium for the most-active arabica contract is 38 cents a pound, down from 92 cents in March 2005, data compiled by Bloomberg show.
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