Thursday, October 23, 2008
By China Millman, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
Pam Panchak/Post-Gazette
French Press coffee service at Legume Bistro in Regent Square.
Great restaurants are great because of their attention to detail. Whether in Pittsburgh or Paris, they serve high-quality bread, use freshly squeezed juices in cocktails and make their desserts from scratch in house. Too many restaurants in Pittsburgh treat these elements of the meal as if they were only details, as if they don't matter in the overall scheme of success.
There are many easy changes that restaurants could make to improve the quality of their meals (so-called whipped cream that actually comes from a canister is ubiquitous and frustrating), but instead I'd like to examine a problem that isn't so easily solved, but is definitely worth solving. Why is it so hard to get a decent cup of coffee in a Pittsburgh restaurant?
The general absence of good coffee in Pittsburgh restaurants is baffling, because Pittsburgh has a vibrant coffee culture supported by people who are also some of the city's most active diners. Pittsburgh has an impressive number of high-quality cafes where professionals devote themselves to serving the best possible coffee and espresso.
Meanwhile, above-average restaurants in Pittsburgh rarely serve above-average coffee. At the end of meals I have learned to order coffee with my fingers crossed. Will it be weak and watery, or so bitter it's undrinkable without a dose of sugar and cream? Will espresso be cold? Will a double shot be large enough to fill a coffee, rather than a demitasse, cup, and will it taste similarly diluted?
Coffee in restaurants will probably never be able to compete in a head-to-head comparison with the best cafes, but that doesn't mean it can't be more than tolerable. Why aren't restaurants taking advantage of, or at least demonstrating an awareness of, an already educated public willing to pay extra for a quality cup?
The immediate cause is disappointingly obvious: Good coffee costs more. No amount of work can turn mediocre beans into a good cup of coffee. Sam Patti, owner of the La Prima Espresso Company, has had a number of frustrating tastings at restaurants where owners and staff express enthusiasm for La Prima coffee, but then balk at spending more for it than they do for whatever they're already brewing -- despite the fact that they can taste the difference in quality.
Even restaurants that buy high-quality beans rarely seek comprehensive training from Patti or from other local experts such as Rich Westerfield of Aldo Coffee in Mt. Lebanon. Though beans are an essential ingredient of good coffee, it's entirely possible to get bad coffee from good beans, just as it's entirely possible to get bad food from high-quality ingredients.
Training staff to make coffee or espresso is difficult, especially given the high turnover of many restaurant workers. When it comes to espresso, most restaurants are doomed from the start, because the machine is "often at the wrong temperature due to long idle times between drink orders," explained Westerfield. "But for drip, any decent place should be able to handle press pots or individual pour-overs with a short but good menu of different coffees."
Westerfield is referring to techniques that most coffee experts consider the future: single-cup brewing methods such as chemex pots, a sort of manual version of drip-coffee, and French press pots, where water is poured directly over ground coffee, "brewed" for approximately three minutes, then the water is "pressed" out of the coffee using a fine wire mesh.
French press coffee is the ideal solution for restaurants because the most important aspect of this method is the recipe -- using the proper amount of beans, ground at the right size, for the right amount of water at the right temperature. Once you've figured out the recipe you prefer, it is quite simple to teach it to anyone.
Legume Bistro has been serving French press coffee (with La Prima beans) since it opened in the summer of 2007, and the coffee I've had there has been consistently top-notch. A small pot of coffee provides two small cups, while a large pot could easily be split among two to four people.
The best part about French press coffee is that not only does it produce excellent coffee, it also introduces a pleasant element of ritual into the meal.
Coffee and tea often get short shrift in individual restaurant reviews because there is simply too much going on in any restaurant to write about everything, but their quality has a measurable impact on my overall experience. I don't expect perfection, just a reasonable amount of care and quality, the same amount of care and quality that goes into the food.
Restaurants continue to worry about rising costs as the price of most major commodities continues to climb, and most will probably scoff at the idea of choosing to spend more on anything right now. But given the current economic climate, there's probably going to be a thinning of restaurants, and the ones that make it aren't necessarily going to be the cheapest. The restaurants that survive are probably going to be the ones that offer the greatest perception of value -- the best experience at any price. Coffee is often the last taste of a restaurant that customers get. Shouldn't it make them want to come back?
Coffee cupping
Coffee cupping
Taste
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Coffee cupping, or coffee tasting, is the practice of observing the tastes and aromas of brewed coffee. It is a professional practise but can be done informally by anyone or by professionals known as Master Tasters.
A standard coffee cupping procedure involves deeply sniffing the coffee, then loudly slurping the coffee so it spreads to the back of the tongue. The coffee taster attempts to measure aspects of the coffee's taste, specifically the body (the texture or mouthfeel, such as oiliness), acidity (a sharp and tangy feeling, like when biting into an orange), and balance (the harmony of flavours working together). Since coffee beans embody telltale flavours from the region where they were grown, cuppers may attempt to predict the coffee's origin.
Aromas
Animal-like - This odour descriptor is somewhat reminiscent of the smell of animals. It is not a fragrant aroma like musk but has the characteristic odour of wet fur, sweat, leather, hides or urine. It is not necessarily considered as a negative attribute but is generally used to describe strong notes.
Ashy - This odour descriptor is similar to that of an ashtray, the odour of smokers' fingers or the smell one gets when cleaning out a fireplace. It is not used as a negative attribute. Generally speaking this descriptor is used by the tasters to indicate the degree of roast.
Burnt/Smoky - This odour and flavour descriptor is similar to that found in burnt food. The odour is associated with smoke produced when burning wood. This descriptor is frequently used to indicate the degree of roast commonly found by tasters in dark-roasted or oven-roasted coffees.
Chemical/Medicinal - This odour descriptor is reminiscent of chemicals, medicines and the smell of hospitals. This term is used to describe coffees having aromas such as rio flavour, chemical residues or highly aromatic coffees which produce large amounts of volatiles.
Chocolate-like - This aroma descriptor is reminiscent of the aroma and flavour of cocoa powder and chocolate (including dark chocolate and milk chocolate). It is an aroma that is sometimes referred to as sweet.
Caramel - This aroma descriptor is reminiscent of the odour and flavour produced when caramelizing sugar without burning it. Tasters should be cautioned not to use this attribute to describe a burning note.
Cereal/Malty/Toastlike - This descriptor includes aromas characteristic of cereal, malt, and toast. It includes scents such as the aroma and flavour of uncooked or roasted grain (including roasted corn, barley or wheat), malt extract and the aroma and flavour of freshly baked bread and freshly made toast. This descriptor has a common denominator, a grain-type aroma. The aromas in this descriptor were grouped together since tasters used these terms interchangeably when evaluating standards of each one.
Earthy - The characteristic odour of fresh, wet soil or humus. Sometimes associated with moulds and reminiscent of raw potato flavour, a common flavournote in coffees from Asia.
Floral - This aroma descriptor is similar to the fragrance of flowers. It is associated with the slight scent of different types of flowers including honeysuckle, jasmine, dandelion and nettles. It is mainly found when an intense fruity or green aroma is perceived but rarely found having a high intensity by itself.
Fruity/Citrus - This aroma is reminiscent of the odour and taste of fruit. The natural aroma of berries is highly associated with this attribute. The perception of high acidity in some coffees is correlated with the citrus characteristic. Tasters should be cautioned not to use this attribute to describe the aroma of unripe or overripe fruit.
Grassy/Green/Herbal - This aroma descriptor includes three terms which are associated with odours reminiscent of a freshly mowed lawn, fresh green grass or herbs, green foliage, green beans or unripe fruit.
Nutty - This aroma is reminiscent of the odour and flavour of fresh nuts (distinct from rancid nuts) and not of bitter almonds.
Rancid/Rotten - This aroma descriptor includes two terms which are associated with odours reminiscent of rancidification and oxidation of several products. Rancid as the main indicator of fat oxidation mainly refers to rancid nuts and rotten is used as an indicator of deteriorated vegetables or non-oily products. Tasters should be cautioned not to apply these descriptors to coffees that have strong notes but no signs of deterioration.
Spicy - This aroma descriptor is typical of the odour of sweet spices such as cloves, cinnamon and allspice. Tasters are cautioned not to use this term to describe the aroma of savoury spices such as pepper, oregano and Indian spices.
Tobacco - This aroma descriptor is reminiscent of the odour and taste of tobacco but should not be used for burnt tobacco.
Winey - This terms is used to describe the combined sensation of smell, taste and mouthfeel experiences when drinking wine. It is generally perceived when a strong acidic or fruity note is found. Tasters should be cautioned not to apply this term to a sour or fermented flavour.
Woody - This aroma descriptor is reminiscent of the smell of dry wood, an oak barrel, dead wood or cardboard paper.
Taste
Acidity - A basic taste characterised by the solution of an organic acid. A desirable sharp and pleasing taste particularly strong with certain origins as opposed to an over-fermented sour taste.
Bitterness - A primary taste characterised by the solution of caffeine, quinine and certain other alkaloids. This taste is considered desirable up to a certain level and is affected by the degree of roast brewing procedures.
Sweetness - This is a basic taste descriptor characterised by solutions of sucrose or fructose which are commonly associated with sweet aroma descriptors such as fruity, chocolate and caramel. It is generally used for describing coffees which are free from off-flavours.
Saltiness - A primary taste characterised by a solution of sodium chloride or other salts.
Sourness - This basic taste descriptor refers to an excessively sharp, biting and unpleasant flavour (such as vinegar or acetic acid). It is sometimes associated with the aroma of fermented coffee. Tasters should be cautious not to confuse this term with acidity which is generally considered a pleasant and desirable taste in coffee.
Mouthfeel
Body - This attribute descriptor is used to describe the physical properties of the beverage. A strong but pleasant full mouthfeel characteristic as opposed to being thin.
To an amateur coffee taster, body can be compared to drinking milk. A heavy body is comparable to whole milk while a light body can be comparable to skim milk.
Astringency - The astringent attribute is characteristic of an after-taste sensation consistent with a dry feeling in the mouth, undesirable in coffee.
SIBORONG BORONG !!! AGAIN !!!
Starbucks announces Sumatra Siborong Borong, Black Apron exclusive coffee offering
Starbucks Coffee introduces Black Apron Exclusives Sumatra Siborong-Borong, available for a limited time only at selected stores in the Middle East.
United Arab Emirates: Tuesday, September 11 - 2007 at 13:33
PRESS RELEASE
Sumatra Siborong-Borong Coffee from Starbucks.
From the region that is the source for Starbucks best-selling single origin coffee comes a rare find in the coffee fields of a small town in Sumatra.
The newest addition to the special line of Black Apron Exclusives™ coffees, Sumatra Siborong-Borong produces the flavour qualities of its Asia/Pacific heritage, but consists of a very distinct and limited crop from a small town on the southern shores of Lake Toba, called Siborong-Borong. In Sumatra, where coffee is grown in rural backyard gardens, nearly all of this coffee is blended prior to export, making the flavours very special, offering the distinct flavour profile of a semi-washed Indonesian coffee, yielding full body and earthy notes. But what makes Sumatra Siborong-Borong especially extraordinary is its soft acidity, intense flavour and surprising herbal complexities with fresh basil notes
'Sumatra has been part of Starbucks' history for a quarter century, used in both blends and as a single-origin offering. In Sumatra, coffee is grown in abundance, nearly all is blended together prior to export. That is why Sumatra Siborong-Borong is very special as it's only available in a single offering not blended with any other coffee. Through Starbucks' relationships with farmers and exporters, Starbucks was able to obtain coffee grown in a single community and reserved this small batch to Starbucks customers. Starbucks Alshaya is delighted and honoured to share this coffee with coffee lovers in the region,' said Antoun Abou Jaoude, Marketing Manager for Starbucks Coffee Middle East.
Sumatra Siborong-Borong is grown in Lake Toba's most-prized coffee-growing area. The microclimate, volcanic soil, high-altitude and coffee stewardship helped produce this exceptional coffee. The climate is wet, so farmers must take extra care to protect the beans from moisture damage by delivering them to a centrally located mill the morning after harvest.
The Black Apron Exclusives™ coffees are named for Starbucks most knowledgeable buyers, roasters, tasters and Coffee Masters, who wear black aprons in the tasting rooms and in Starbucks coffeehouses. These coffees represent Starbucks expertise in coffee and dedication to the farmers who grow it. Black Apron Exclusives™ coffees are rare and intriguing, available in very limited supply and designed to appeal to people looking to experience truly unique and exotic flavours.
Starbucks awards US$15,000 for each Black Apron Exclusives™ coffee to help fund projects that support their communities, their environment and coffee sustainability. This award will be used to build three village clinics in Siborong-Borong coffee-producing areas. These new clinics will provide improved health care on a daily basis, benefiting approximately 3,000 of the area's residents.
'Sumatra Siborong-Borong is a C.A.F.E. (Coffee & Farmers Equity) Practices-verified coffee, ensuring the sustainable supply of high-quality coffee and preservation of farmers' rights where the coffee is sourced. Many people love Sumatra coffee, but few have ever experienced Sumatran flavours like these. This coffee beautifully packaged in a unique die-cut box is a rare treat, available only at selected Starbucks Alshaya stores across the Middle East. Customers can help support coffee-farming communities around the world by purchasing our Black Apron Exclusive coffees,' added Abou Jaoude.
Starbucks Coffee introduces Black Apron Exclusives Sumatra Siborong-Borong, available for a limited time only at selected stores in the Middle East.
United Arab Emirates: Tuesday, September 11 - 2007 at 13:33
PRESS RELEASE
Sumatra Siborong-Borong Coffee from Starbucks.
From the region that is the source for Starbucks best-selling single origin coffee comes a rare find in the coffee fields of a small town in Sumatra.
The newest addition to the special line of Black Apron Exclusives™ coffees, Sumatra Siborong-Borong produces the flavour qualities of its Asia/Pacific heritage, but consists of a very distinct and limited crop from a small town on the southern shores of Lake Toba, called Siborong-Borong. In Sumatra, where coffee is grown in rural backyard gardens, nearly all of this coffee is blended prior to export, making the flavours very special, offering the distinct flavour profile of a semi-washed Indonesian coffee, yielding full body and earthy notes. But what makes Sumatra Siborong-Borong especially extraordinary is its soft acidity, intense flavour and surprising herbal complexities with fresh basil notes
'Sumatra has been part of Starbucks' history for a quarter century, used in both blends and as a single-origin offering. In Sumatra, coffee is grown in abundance, nearly all is blended together prior to export. That is why Sumatra Siborong-Borong is very special as it's only available in a single offering not blended with any other coffee. Through Starbucks' relationships with farmers and exporters, Starbucks was able to obtain coffee grown in a single community and reserved this small batch to Starbucks customers. Starbucks Alshaya is delighted and honoured to share this coffee with coffee lovers in the region,' said Antoun Abou Jaoude, Marketing Manager for Starbucks Coffee Middle East.
Sumatra Siborong-Borong is grown in Lake Toba's most-prized coffee-growing area. The microclimate, volcanic soil, high-altitude and coffee stewardship helped produce this exceptional coffee. The climate is wet, so farmers must take extra care to protect the beans from moisture damage by delivering them to a centrally located mill the morning after harvest.
The Black Apron Exclusives™ coffees are named for Starbucks most knowledgeable buyers, roasters, tasters and Coffee Masters, who wear black aprons in the tasting rooms and in Starbucks coffeehouses. These coffees represent Starbucks expertise in coffee and dedication to the farmers who grow it. Black Apron Exclusives™ coffees are rare and intriguing, available in very limited supply and designed to appeal to people looking to experience truly unique and exotic flavours.
Starbucks awards US$15,000 for each Black Apron Exclusives™ coffee to help fund projects that support their communities, their environment and coffee sustainability. This award will be used to build three village clinics in Siborong-Borong coffee-producing areas. These new clinics will provide improved health care on a daily basis, benefiting approximately 3,000 of the area's residents.
'Sumatra Siborong-Borong is a C.A.F.E. (Coffee & Farmers Equity) Practices-verified coffee, ensuring the sustainable supply of high-quality coffee and preservation of farmers' rights where the coffee is sourced. Many people love Sumatra coffee, but few have ever experienced Sumatran flavours like these. This coffee beautifully packaged in a unique die-cut box is a rare treat, available only at selected Starbucks Alshaya stores across the Middle East. Customers can help support coffee-farming communities around the world by purchasing our Black Apron Exclusive coffees,' added Abou Jaoude.
SIBORONG BORONG !!!
http://www.starbucksstore.com/products/shprodde.asp?SKU=528215
Sumatra Siborong-Borong by Starbucks Coffee
Black Apron Exclusives™ #2 - 2007
Grown in Siborong-Borong—a town in the heart of Sumatra's Lake Toba coffee-growing region—this rare, full-bodied coffee offers a surprising complexity, soft acidity and hints of freshly cut basil.
More about this coffee:
Batak women pick the cherries and then pulp and wash them, all by hand. The wet parchment is set out to dry in the sun on tarps or woven mats in front of houses. This coffee is sorted by hand and delivered to market the day after harvest to ensure freshness.
More about Black Apron Exclusives™:
As the name suggests, Black Apron Exclusives™ coffee represent the very best in a lineup of outstanding coffees. Our tasters go to the ends of the earth, in search of beans whose flavors and unique characteristics earn them the highest honor we can bestow. In a show of appreciation, participating farmers receive a cash award for their unrivaled contributions. Since its introduction in April of 2004, the Black Apron Exclusives™ series has exceeded expectations both in flavor and in demand. The limited batches of these rare coffees are highly treasured and enjoyed for as long as we can keep them around.
Now all Starbucks® coffees are at your fingertips - StarbucksStore.com is the online resource for all Starbucks coffees. Buy Starbucks coffees - whole bean, ground, pods, caffeinated, decaf, single-origin, espressos, blends, organic, promotional/holiday/seasonal blends and Black Apron Exclusives™ - easily and conveniently, delivered to your home or office.
KOPI BALI
Kopi Robusta
Lokasi: Kab. Buleleng, TabananKopi Robusta Bali sudah mulai kembali diminati di pasar Timur Tengah. Kualitas produk kopi Robusta Bali mulai dapat meningkat karena para petani mulai melakukan panen buah yang sudah merah 100% dan proses pengolahan mulai dengan cara basah. Sampai dengan tahun 2005 luas areal kopi Robusta = 23.823 ha dengan volume produksi = 13.694 ton dengan sentra produksi di Kab. Tabanan dan Buleleng masing-masing memiliki produksi 5.483 ton dan 13.649 ton. Biji kopi Robusta relatif besar yaitu medium ke atas sampai large-bean. Produktivitas cukup tinggi dan para petani sudah mulai biasa panen buah kopi yang sudah berwarna merah 100%.
Prospek
Kopi Robusta Bali sangat diminati oleh para konsumen di Eropa dan Afrika. Penduduk Indonesia dengan jumlah ± 120 juta jiwa sudah terbiasa minum kopi Robusta. Kopi Robusta merupakan bahan baku kopi blending dengan kopi Arabika.Segmen Pasar
| 1. | Dalam negeri |
| 2. | Luar negeri: Afrika, Belanda, Asia |
Daya saing kopi Robusta mulai meningkat, bahan baku untuk industri primer masih cukup tersedia
| Kab. Tabanan | 27.415 ton buah kopi gelondong merah |
| Kab. Buleleng | 68.470 ton buah kopi gelondong merah |
Untuk industri hilir/sekunder tersedia bahan baku di Kab.:
| Kab. Tabanan | 5.483 ton kopi biji |
| Kab. Buleleng | 13.694 ton kopi biji |
Usaha agrobisnis kopi bubuk sudah ada dalam skala kecil dengan pangsa pasar lokal
Jenis Produk
| Bahan Mentah (RAW-material) | |
Diharapkan dapat menghasilkan produk hilir yaitu: kopi sangrai, kopi bubuk, dan turunan lainnya |
Daya dukung
| 1. | Sarana tranportasi sudah tersedia dan dalam kondisi baik (jalan menuju sentra produksi sudah diaspal). |
| 2. | Listrik sudah masuk ke seluruh desa. |
| 3. | Pemda Tabanan dan Buleleng mendukung kehadiran investor dalam bidang agroindustri. |
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